Openpod intake useless on AT cars ??

[Ladykillerz]

last time, I had tried the 1st photo(left one) on CS3 and the power slightly improved.

but you don't expect to fly like an Evo hor. Hehe.

 

I got another friend tried the 2nd photo on Mz3 but I'm not sure good or not.

 

both are for AT cars.

 

 

[Ladykillerz]

  On 10/5/2010 at 1:21 PM, Enforcer533 said:

Hmm but if i put the simota Carbon charger. do i need to get a new exhaust ???

Another question is if i put that the stock filter box had to be taken out ?

 

no need to change to new exhaust.

yes, you need to take out the whole stock filter box.

however, if the layout is too limited, you need to add pipe to connect the filter to the engine.

Edited October 5, 2010 by Ladykillerz

[Dscheng]

  On 10/5/2010 at 1:21 PM, Enforcer533 said:

Hmm but if i put the simota Carbon charger. do i need to get a new exhaust ???

Another question is if i put that the stock filter box had to be taken out ?

Yes, if you go for closepod setup, the stock filter box have to take out. Wht is your ride?

[Zze121]

Gear ratio for AT are like 2.78,1.5,1 & 0.69, as for MT are 3.4,1.9,1.3,0.97 & 0.78.

If base on this ratio, AT pick up will be weak. And with the open pod, u can imaging how bad it can be.

The best way is to tune the ECU to get better power with FC under control.

Adding SS filter may invite unwanted partical into the engine.

 

[Enforcer533]

  On 10/5/2010 at 1:58 PM, Dscheng said:

Yes, if you go for closepod setup, the stock filter box have to take out. Wht is your ride?

 

 

my ride nw is a 10 Forte ^^ roughly hw much will it cost to do a close pod ?

[Moredhel]

  On 10/5/2010 at 1:14 PM, Lammy84 said:

CAI is essentially an open pod that situated away from original position to a cooler position in the engine bay, its still an open pod by nature

 

Errr.....

 

Tot CAi is cold air intake?

 

Which is essentially the tubing which supplies ambient temp air from outside into your open/closed/box filter

located within the engine bay(which has higher temperature than ambient air) which feeds the engine combustion?

 

 

 

Anyway TS, if you are looking at CAI, get the WS to cut the tubing to the length you require. The excess is a

blockage to the air intake.

 

If you're doing open pod w cai, make sure you do a 'heat shield' around the filter area.

Essentially making it as close to 'closed pod' as possible.

 

But auto car, personally recommend hi flow filter is good enough.

[Enforcer533]

  On 10/5/2010 at 2:40 PM, Moredhel said:

Errr.....

 

Tot CAi is cold air intake?

 

Which is essentially the tubing which supplies ambient temp air from outside into your open/closed/box filter

located within the engine bay(which has higher temperature than ambient air) which feeds the engine combustion?

 

 

 

Anyway TS, if you are looking at CAI, get the WS to cut the tubing to the length you require. The excess is a

blockage to the air intake.

 

If you're doing open pod w cai, make sure you do a 'heat shield' around the filter area.

Essentially making it as close to 'closed pod' as possible.

 

But auto car, personally recommend hi flow filter is good enough.

 

 

But comparing CAI,SRI open pod etc. does the hi flow filter matches the

power with them ?? or is gonna be less ?

[Minikong]

  On 10/5/2010 at 2:40 PM, Moredhel said:

Errr.....

 

Tot CAi is cold air intake?

 

Which is essentially the tubing which supplies ambient temp air from outside into your open/closed/box filter

located within the engine bay(which has higher temperature than ambient air) which feeds the engine combustion?

 

 

 

Anyway TS, if you are looking at CAI, get the WS to cut the tubing to the length you require. The excess is a

blockage to the air intake.

 

If you're doing open pod w cai, make sure you do a 'heat shield' around the filter area.

Essentially making it as close to 'closed pod' as possible.

 

But auto car, personally recommend hi flow filter is good enough.

 

go for bmc cda, it is the 1 of the best, and rated higher than gruppe m, but it cost $1k sgd for it. u can try to go espace to look for peter.

i had found peter, and he did this for me as below , look kinda cool hoho

Edited October 5, 2010 by Minikong

[20G]

  On 10/5/2010 at 3:00 PM, Minikong said:

go for bmc cda, it is the 1 of the best, and rated higher than gruppe m, but it cost $1k sgd for it. u can try to go espace to look for peter.

i had found peter, and he did this for me as below , look kinda cool hoho

 

I tot u juz mentioned dat modding one's ride is a waste of money and petrol?

 

 

[Dscheng]

1k for that setup.. Wow.. That is very expensive le !!

[Enforcer533]

Lol i tought it should be about 200-400 range ?? 1k is v ex

[Zniper]

TS, if u really wan do an open pod dan do it together wif CAI... since ur car is AT, put an enclosure covering the open pod and tink shld be able to clear ur mind off the slow picking up... :)

but hor, u need to remove ur stock airbox totally... i find it very troublesome so i din do mine... :/

[Le_Stig]

Simple fact is that most of the claims ie: Performance filters are more marketing than fact. Back in the day (pre-1980s) when car engines were engineered in a more... agricultural manner, filters/induction systems (aftermarket or OE) could make a huge difference. Today, millions are spent on engineering ensuring that engines are as efficient as practicable -efficiency being a balance between power, fuel economy, noise, drivability and most importantly emissions. Note that all of these factors are better than ever before, i.e. in totality engines are more efficient than ever before. Maximising airflow is required to achieve this.

 

Unlikely then, that the manufacturer is going bang on an unnecessarily restrictive filter system and make the car less efficient. They put one on that is quiet enough and has enough filtration head room so that performance won't suffer as the filter clogs between services. The fact is that with a clean filter, unless your foot is flat, the throttle butterfly is the biggest impediment to airflow in the induction path rather than filter kits. The only time a clean std filter/air box is a limiter at WFO at high airflow (high rpm). Even then, it may be able to flow more air than other components in the induction tract such as the MAF, and may not in fact be the limiting factor even then.

 

Long story short, the expected gains from a bolt-on aftermarket filter/induction set up on an otherwise standard engine are minimal (unless tuned and dynoed). As one of the TS puts it, gear ratio does play a part but not the whole, definitely not

Edited October 6, 2010 by Le_Stig

[Moredhel]

  On 10/6/2010 at 1:40 AM, Le_Stig said:

Simple fact is that most of the claims ie: Performance filters are more marketing than fact. Back in the day (pre-1980s) when car engines were engineered in a more... agricultural manner, filters/induction systems (aftermarket or OE) could make a huge difference. Today, millions are spent on engineering ensuring that engines are as efficient as practicable -efficiency being a balance between power, fuel economy, noise, drivability and most importantly emissions. Note that all of these factors are better than ever before, i.e. in totality engines are more efficient than ever before. Maximising airflow is required to achieve this.

 

Unlikely then, that the manufacturer is going bang on an unnecessarily restrictive filter system and make the car less efficient. They put one on that is quiet enough and has enough filtration head room so that performance won't suffer as the filter clogs between services. The fact is that with a clean filter, unless your foot is flat, the throttle butterfly is the biggest impediment to airflow in the induction path rather than filter kits. The only time a clean std filter/air box is a limiter at WFO at high airflow (high rpm). Even then, it may be able to flow more air than other components in the induction tract such as the MAF, and may not in fact be the limiting factor even then.

 

Long story short, the expected gains from a bolt-on aftermarket filter/induction set up on an otherwise standard engine are minimal (unless tuned and dynoed). As one of the TS puts it, gear ratio does play a part but not the whole, definitely not

[Celicar]

I didn't know can do CAI even after putting on open pod, thought must choose only 1. Learn something new.

[Minikong]

  On 10/5/2010 at 4:17 PM, Enforcer533 said:

Lol i tought it should be about 200-400 range ?? 1k is v ex

 

bmc is very expensive compare to other brands, and only espace and st power got sell.

 

the bmc cda cost $780, and the custom funnel to increase the performance cost $240, so add together = $1020

labour cost is inclusive, as it only take up 30 mins. but mine is a mini cooper so i am using the model that range up to 1600 cc .

if your car is more than 1600 cc, i think should be more ex. maybe u can go bmw website to see more of this, most of the m series ppl install this too.

u can go and research more about bmc cda, and maybe it can convince you that it is really worth the money.

haha dont like this la, i kana posion liao so tell you all dont like this lol.

[Le_Stig]

  On 10/6/2010 at 2:32 AM, Moredhel said:

Actually most of the restriction is at the exhaust section. ^^

 

Upgrade header, mid pipe and muffler and remove the meow confirm you need the extra a hi flow filter.

 

And removal of the damn resonator which is a pressure drop choke point for cars.

 

Agreed. Exhuast systems plays a part too. Key thing is to upgrade parts (be it exhuast or air intake systems) which will compliment each other. Tuning is essential for efficiency.

[Le_Stig]

  On 10/6/2010 at 2:53 AM, Celicar said:

I didn't know can do CAI even after putting on open pod, thought must choose only 1. Learn something new.

 

The definition of Cold Air Intake (or CAI) can differ from countries to countries, workshop to workshop and car owners to car owners.

 

CAI can be defined in various setup ie:

 

1. Channelling cold air (specifically cooler air compared to engine compartment) via custom made pipe away from engine drawing cooler air to your stock or aftermarket air system

2. Channelling cold air (specifically cooler air compared to engine compartment) via re-locating aftermarket air system away from stock position to a cooler location.

3. Channelling cold air (specifically cooler air compared to engine compartment) via force induction (in this FI case referring to forcing cooler air during motion into stock or aftermarket air system)

 

So, in your case of "Open Pod" air system can in fact have a combination of CAI and FI channelling or forcing cold air.

Edited October 6, 2010 by Le_Stig