How to read this tyre pressure label?

[ALTK]

Friendly doesn't indicate professionalism. I'd take any car sales person words with a bucket of salt. Even some of the service manager also need a bowl of salt.

IMH, torkor Service Advisers are like customer service officers, they only service customers...don’t service cars wan so...friendliness is the basic professionalism they must have....and yet...many still very LCLY wan...especially when u request to change some parts during warranty period.

[Inlinefour]

IIRC,  when I opted for nitrogen during tyres change,  my leakage was much lesser vs normal air.

The fact that my leakage was all so often,  after a while, my tyres would be mostly nitrogen. 

While the benefit is that I pump less often, I have to pay more attention to cold tyre pressure. 

 

Before I purchase the package

 

Was told nitro very good slow leakage

 

Then ok pay for it

 

Since normal air time I had been monitoring the psi and temperature of tyres

 

Then every month all 4 tyres about leaking 10kPa per tyre

 

So nitro inside new tyres and rims

 

Checked still same...every month also 10kPa

 

Then go back to the tyre shop guy and ask him

 

Why leakage same with normal air 

 

This guy said 78% of air is nitrogen mah...of course same leakage lah unless puncture 

 

Then I said he told me slow leakage

 

He said 10kPa is consider super slow per month

 

Really taboleh tahan man... flip prata like Pinky man

 

No horse run 

[Kklee]

Before I purchase the package

 

Was told nitro very good slow leakage

 

Then ok pay for it

 

Since normal air time I had been monitoring the psi and temperature of tyres

 

Then every month all 4 tyres about leaking 10kPa per tyre

 

So nitro inside new tyres and rims

 

Checked still same...every month also 10kPa

 

Then go back to the tyre shop guy and ask him

 

Why leakage same with normal air 

 

This guy said 78% of air is nitrogen mah...of course same leakage lah unless puncture 

 

Then I said he told me slow leakage

 

He said 10kPa is consider super slow per month

 

Really taboleh tahan man... flip prata like Pinky man

 

No horse run 

 

Eh... like that means you don't really need nitrogen lor.

 

IIRC,  with normal air, every about 4 days I pump once.

With nitrogen, extend another 2-3 days.

 

P.S.  I asked my crystal ball -  say you likely to park open air carpark or 1st storey MSCP.  Also drive when the sky is bright.  

[Inlinefour]

Eh... like that means you don't really need nitrogen lor.

 

IIRC,  with normal air, every about 4 days I pump once.

With nitrogen, extend another 2-3 days.

 

P.S.  I asked my crystal ball -  say you likely to park open air carpark or 1st storey MSCP.  Also drive when the sky is bright.  

 

I parked MSCP

 

No joke but my mileage is low...5 to 6k per year

 

Monthly leakage on my 3 month old car also 10kPa per tyre monthly

 

If your case got to pump weekly I think maybe something wrong with the valve 

 

Ask the tyre shop to check

 

Normally tyre pressure check is fortnightly 

[Kklee]

I parked MSCP

 

No joke but my mileage is low...5 to 6k per year

 

Monthly leakage on my 3 month old car also 10kPa per tyre monthly

 

If your case got to pump weekly I think maybe something wrong with the valve 

 

Ask the tyre shop to check

 

Normally tyre pressure check is fortnightly 

 

 

Eh... my crystal ball spoil because of your low mileage.

 

Nothing wrong with the valves - everytime change tyres will change the valves.  Different vehicle also like that. 

My mileage is at least about 4 times yours.

Likely my usage pattern. 

 

I got tpms...so just look at the display.  

[Vratenza]

Stock 19" RFT is this : 235/55R19 101V

 

New 20" non-RFT= 255/45 R20 105V

 

Doc, tyre is load bearing.

What’s stock and new tyre load index? I can tell you what’s the minimum pressure to pump.

My previous PSS and current PS4 has same load index of 92.

But PSS sidewall is as stiff as RFT.

 

[Vratenza]

If you have time.. .. 

 

 

 

Eh... my crystal ball spoil because of your low mileage.

 

Nothing wrong with the valves - everytime change tyres will change the valves.  Different vehicle also like that. 

My mileage is at least about 4 times yours.

Likely my usage pattern. 

 

I got tpms...so just look at the display.  

 

[ALTK]

Friendliness is only basic respect anyone should have. Doesn't matter service agent or sales man or cleaner. I treat them with respect and expect the same in return. If got no product knowledge then they are providing ZERO value to the customer, therefore unprofessional. Too bad this is how many of the torkor is run here, not all of course .. some are professional.

Me too...i always give respect first no matter who they are. Even if they really privide zero value...i'll only blame the company for their poor management to engage wrong person for the job. But i always give ppl chance wan la.

[Kklee]

If you have time.. .. 

 

 

Not applicable to me.

Did they cover any to indicate which gas leak more when the tyres are in motion during cold and hot temperature ?  

 

If going by what was mentioned in the video for the static tyres gas permeation test, then me, maybe everyone else who pump once a month, be having a "pressure integrity problem" because an air filled tyre suppose to lose only 1 psi ( approx 7 kPA ) every 15 weeks ?

 

If I really want to use that data ( air/nitrogen 15/24 weeks)  to translate to my real world pressure loss,  my statement below would more or less valid. 

 

IIRC,  with normal air, every about 4 days I pump once.

With nitrogen, extend another 2-3 days.

 

( 15 weeks /4 days  ) *   (2.5 days (avg)  + 4 days)  = 24.375 weeks

 

P.S.  I myself dunno if the calculation makes sense. 

[inlinesix]

240~250 within my comfy range for my current rides, 260 a bit too hard for me liao.

 

Minimum is 230.  Pump to 240 is more than enough.

 

[inlinesix]

Stock 19" RFT is this : 235/55R19 101V

 

New 20" non-RFT= 255/45 R20 105V

 

For light load, reduce from 220 to 200.

 

For full load, reduce from 240/290 to 208/245

[Vratenza]

I don't know man.

 

I just know base on my remnant vestige of of jc physics and chemistry, what the guy said and what I read in other motoring blogs and reviews makes sense. All the numbers don't interest me. I am more into the principle behind it. Not the numbers. 

 

I have tried nitrogen before. All free ones whenever I change a set of tires. The shop even offer me FOC top ups if I go back to them. Frankly, it does not even make any difference for me. I still do my monthly petrol kiosk top ups (when my previous cars don't come with TPMS with real time pressure readouts), just set the pressure at the pump and insert into each valve. If it is low it will top up to the correct pressure anyway. Most of the time, all 4 wheels are evenly losing pressure. It's a good opportunity to pick up unusual loss of pressure from a small nail puncture. And also visually inspect the tires for wear and thread depth. 

 

Unless the tire shop is just in my neighbourhood and opens 24hrs a day and nitrogen top ups are FOC, I will not bother. 

 

That's my personal experience and conclusion.   

 

Not applicable to me.

Did they cover any to indicate which gas leak more when the tyres are in motion during cold and hot temperature ?  

 

If going by what was mentioned in the video for the static tyres gas permeation test, then me, maybe everyone else who pump once a month, be having a "pressure integrity problem" because an air filled tyre suppose to lose only 1 psi ( approx 7 kPA ) every 15 weeks ?

 

If I really want to use that data ( air/nitrogen 15/24 weeks)  to translate to my real world pressure loss,  my statement below would more or less valid. 

 

IIRC,  with normal air, every about 4 days I pump once.

With nitrogen, extend another 2-3 days.

 

( 15 weeks /4 days  ) *   (2.5 days (avg)  + 4 days)  = 24.375 weeks

 

P.S.  I myself dunno if the calculation makes sense. 

 

Edited September 26, 2018 by Vratenza

[AdrianYhy]

Do you own a car?

 

All cars comes with tire brands such as Goodyear, Michelin, Bridgestone, continental, Dunlop, westlake, hankook.... 

 

Look at your tire pressure sticker near your driver door frame. 

 

I meant each car brand does not have a fixed tyre type, size or brand....then the stickers could be loosely based on a certain brand. model and size of a tyre in the country of manufacturer (like Japan or Germany) and thus may not be used here.

 

The standard for Outlander is 240 (based on <160Km\h) for 215/70R16 100H and 225/55R18 98H.

I using 14 mth old 17" tyre (cannot remember brand or model)

 

I pump like 245 for my outlander ....then the braking is good but feels like a bit draggy and hard to move off

If I pump 265.....then I can feel it smoother and it "glides" longer distances.

[inlinesix]

I meant each car brand does not have a fixed tyre type, size or brand....then the stickers could be loosely based on a certain brand. model and size of a tyre in the country of manufacturer (like Japan or Germany) and thus may not be used here.

 

The standard for Outlander is 240 (based on <160Km\h) for 215/70R16 100H and 225/55R18 98H.

I using 14 mth old 17" tyre (cannot remember brand or model)

 

I pump like 245 for my outlander ....then the braking is good but feels like a bit draggy and hard to move off

If I pump 265.....then I can feel it smoother and it "glides" longer distances.

 

That's rubbish lah. 

 

Tyre is load bearing.  Based on load index and tire pressure of stock outlander 16" tyre, load capacity of 16" tyre is 775kg/tyre.

 

If 17" tyre has higher load index, you should pump lower pressure.

 

If 17" tyre has lower load index you should pump higher pressure.

[Kklee]

I meant each car brand does not have a fixed tyre type, size or brand....then the stickers could be loosely based on a certain brand. model and size of a tyre in the country of manufacturer (like Japan or Germany) and thus may not be used here.

 

The standard for Outlander is 240 (based on <160Km\h) for 215/70R16 100H and 225/55R18 98H.

I using 14 mth old 17" tyre (cannot remember brand or model)

 

I pump like 245 for my outlander ....then the braking is good but feels like a bit draggy and hard to move off

If I pump 265.....then I can feel it smoother and it "glides" longer distances.

 

IMHO,  what you are experiencing, possibility like many others, is that the tyres are not performing to your expectation.

If you meant that there  a "right" tyre for a vehicle, I will agree with you.

 

E.g. my previous car,  had European tuned suspension that was independent all around.   Originally, it came with semi-performance tyres.   When I changed to comfort tyres,  the ride becomes bouncy and I had to increase the tyre pressure.  

 

In your scenario, you are just re-emphasizing what many had done, increase the pressure to meet individual expectation.

The bottom line is,  increasing pressure to reduce the contact patch to improve fuel economy at the expense of  vehicle traction and braking.

 

A point to note is that this will "unlikely" be a concern if the choice of tyres exceeds the "performance" of the factory supplied.  I feel you should at least know what tyre you are using. 

 

Whether it is a a plus or minus,  depends on how one look at it.  It is usually being look upon as neutral or plus.   

[Heartlander]

That's rubbish lah. 

 

Tyre is load bearing.  Based on load index and tire pressure of stock outlander 16" tyre, load capacity of 16" tyre is 775kg/tyre.

 

If 17" tyre has higher load index, you should pump lower pressure.

 

If 17" tyre has lower load index you should pump higher pressure.

 

All along I understand to choose tyre must look at the load index and speed index of the tyres.

 

For example 91V means this tyre cannot take load of more than 615kg/tyre ==> 2460kg for 4 tyres, and the tyre cannot go faster than 240km/hr which is the V speed rating.

 

Of course cannot get tyres with load index just nice the weight of the car, but I never come across any article online advocating how much margin to provide to be safe. Logically to provide for situation such as one tyre burst thus the remaining 3 tyres to share the load of the car, the load index preferably be (actual car weight/3) ==> load index of 91 can only be used on cars lighter than 615x3=1845kg which covers most of the cars sold here. Correct me if I am wrong.

 

And can you elaborate on the portion highlighted in blue? Generally all tyre makers will not recommend you to pump at whatever pressure, but always to follow that recommended by the car maker for the ride you are putting the tyres. And of course not to exceed the very high max pressure that the tyre is made to withstand.So what you put down really confuses me. Thanks in advance for enlightening.

[Beregond]

All along I understand to choose tyre must look at the load index and speed index of the tyres.

 

For example 91V means this tyre cannot take load of more than 615kg/tyre ==> 2460kg for 4 tyres, and the tyre cannot go faster than 240km/hr which is the V speed rating.

 

Of course cannot get tyres with load index just nice the weight of the car, but I never come across any article online advocating how much margin to provide to be safe. Logically to provide for situation such as one tyre burst thus the remaining 3 tyres to share the load of the car, the load index preferably be (actual car weight/3) ==> load index of 91 can only be used on cars lighter than 615x3=1845kg which covers most of the cars sold here. Correct me if I am wrong.

 

And c

an you elaborate on the portion highlighted in blue? Generally all tyre makers will not recommend you to pump at whatever pressure, but always to follow that recommended by the car maker for the ride you are putting the tyres. And of course not to exceed the very high max pressure that the tyre is made to withstand.So what you put down really confuses me. Thanks in advance for enlightening.

Yup the 91V is the weight n speed ratio .

But I think most tyres esp branded like Bridgestone. Their tyres exceed the spec given alot.

For example 91V total is 2.4t.

Even u use on 3t. The tyres also won't blow.

Maybe will have very fast wear . That's it.

 

The PSI marking we saw on the tyres side

( usually is around 40 for car tyres) is for installation use.

Cos when tyres shop pump up the tyre to sit inside the grooves ( I dun know how to call it)

They always over pump. It's very normal to see them pump to 80psi before the tyres sit in properly. U will hear a very loud (POP/BANG)

Edited September 29, 2018 by Beregond

[Heartlander]

Yup the 91V is the weight n speed ratio .

But I think most tyres esp branded like Bridgestone. Their tyres exceed the spec given alot.

For example 91V total is 2.4t.

Even u use on 3t. The tyres also won't blow.

Maybe will have very fast wear . That's it.

 

The PSI marking we saw on the tyres side

( usually is around 40 for car tyres) is for installation use.

Cos when tyres shop pump up the tyre to sit inside the grooves ( I dun know how to call it)

They always over pump. It's very normal to see them pump to 80psi before the tyres sit in properly. U will hear a very loud (POP/BANG)

The funny thing is never come across any article that advice on the margin. Not very comforting that the only group of people stating confidence on the tyres loading capacity are not the tyre makers themselves, but the consumers.