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Why do YOU think C@rlube is lousy? i mean seriously...


Ken4555
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If you want a lasting oil and at affordable price. I think Amsoil is the one to go. Else, Schaffer 9000 is good enough. I agree that those oil that are mean for performance sheers down fast, good example is Sh*** He*** Ult**, it breaks down at around 3000km on my ride and I have to flush it out. Another good example that I used before was mob** go**, but lasted quite abit more, around 5k+ but can feel its starting to feel sluggish. c-----e is quite ok till 7k but I did not use further as I normally will not use EO more than 5k.

 

For now on Schaffer 9000. It gives me better mileage as well, will try Amsoil next since they are about the same price.

Amsoil about the same price? MX is selling at $13 per qt, I got my Schaeffer 9K at $11 per qt.. quite a difference if you ask me.. but then you have to buy 6 qts to get the $11 per qt price.

 

My car feels good with Schaeffer already, so I guess I won't be switching to more expensive oil. I did buy a 5L bottle of C@rlube Triple R for my next service.. [laugh]

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Which is perfect for me. :D

Yup, I'll be going back to C@rlube again for my next service. And probably the next few services after that.. probably will have 3 bottles to make sure I use up all completely since I need minimum 3L for every fill [laugh]

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To summarize, those people who procrastinate so much about this EO issue are just typical Singapore.

 

Ai pi, Ai qi, Ai tua liap ni mindset

 

really still got pple change oil every 5000km ah? [rolleyes]

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I have heard of bimers, saabs and vw using expensive oils with sludge problems.

 

Till today I have never seen or heard of any car with sludge or any problem using

c-- ---e with regular oil change.

 

Or even with non regular oil change.

 

I am sure c-- ---e 5-40 shears but many 5-40 oils also shears.

 

All I know is car lub flies off the shelves and is used around the world,

so a lot of people use it.

 

If anyone has any evidence of an engine kaput bcos of c-- ---e,

I would be very interested to hear. [:)]

 

In our environment with high humidity, start stop traffic and polluted air,

changing at 5k with cheap oil even mineral is probably better than holding

on for 10 or 15k.

 

 

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Amsoil about the same price? MX is selling at $13 per qt, I got my Schaeffer 9K at $11 per qt.. quite a difference if you ask me.. but then you have to buy 6 qts to get the $11 per qt price.

 

My car feels good with Schaeffer already, so I guess I won't be switching to more expensive oil. I did buy a 5L bottle of C@rlube Triple R for my next service.. [laugh]

 

$2 bucks diff is not big leh, the most $8 but Amsoil claims 25000miles...

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ken, why is it that you have to keep proving c-----e is cheap and good ? :D anyway myself had used it and i find it as good as any other brand of eo which are more expensive.

 

actually because this is the 1st time in my life i have paid $14 for the cost of oil for my oil change... NEVER IN MY LIFE... [laugh]

 

and the fact is that c@rlube is an 'ok' oil... but many here seems to think otherwise...

 

but when i saw it last time i was so turned off by the bottle.. but after a littele bit of research, i think its really ok...

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EO will have impact on HP meh [sly] ? You mean engine responsiveness or butt feel is it?

 

Regards,

 

aiyo Dyno test have proven and its common sense... a 0W/20 oil VS a 15W/50 or 60 oil, the thicker the oil the more engine drag it has lah...

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okok... to ALL the ppl who says... c@rlube is ok but it shears fast...

 

now what is your term of 'shearing'... oil getting to thin? how you know that? engine rougher? could it be the detergent effect of the oil is good thus it is removing the carbon in the engine and is floating around the engine? this is what a good engine oil should do...

 

if you talk about 'racing' oils.. usually it has no detergent effect... its not recommended for normal use... it does not clean the engine at all... prolong use of 'racing' oils without detergent effect will shorten the life of the engine... am i wrong? i dont think so.

 

so when the engine is quiet, we say wah the oil is good... ??? i can pour lotsa thick oil treament into the engine and it will be quieter... but good???

 

 

now without lab tests on a used engine oil, how can any regular driver tell if his or her engine oil has shear off and is at the end of its life???

 

all we regular drivers can tell is if the engine is smoother or rougher or quieter or noisier... with our butt dynos... so what does what really mean...

 

 

 

 

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Neutral Newbie

Anyone try this local brand. Only for motor racing use only.

 

Roar

 

u trust local products?? How much do u think a local company would spent on R&D then other big oil company? Ask yourslef this question b4 u proceed [;)]

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okok... to ALL the ppl who says... c@rlube is ok but it shears fast...

 

now what is your term of 'shearing'... oil getting to thin? how you know that? engine rougher? could it be the detergent effect of the oil is good thus it is removing the carbon in the engine and is floating around the engine? this is what a good engine oil should do...

 

if you talk about 'racing' oils.. usually it has no detergent effect... its not recommended for normal use... it does not clean the engine at all... prolong use of 'racing' oils without detergent effect will shorten the life of the engine... am i wrong? i dont think so.

 

so when the engine is quiet, we say wah the oil is good... ??? i can pour lotsa thick oil treament into the engine and it will be quieter... but good???

 

 

now without lab tests on a used engine oil, how can any regular driver tell if his or her engine oil has shear off and is at the end of its life???

 

all we regular drivers can tell is if the engine is smoother or rougher or quieter or noisier... with our butt dynos... so what does what really mean...

 

Two UOA of CLTR 5w40 for your reference.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...true#Post856263

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...true#Post238838

 

At 100deg.C, if the oil kinematic viscosity is <12.5cSt it is considered 30 weight or lower. The first analysis is very applicable to your car. ^_^

Although shearing from a 40 weight to 30 weight is confirmed, but I still think its a ok oil to use. I also used it previously, no problem. [thumbsup]

Edited by Octopus
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I have heard of bimers, saabs and vw using expensive oils with sludge problems.

 

Till today I have never seen or heard of any car with sludge or any problem using

c-- ---e with regular oil change.

 

Or even with non regular oil change.

 

I am sure c-- ---e 5-40 shears but many 5-40 oils also shears.

 

All I know is car lub flies off the shelves and is used around the world,

so a lot of people use it.

 

If anyone has any evidence of an engine kaput bcos of c-- ---e,

I would be very interested to hear. [:)]

 

In our environment with high humidity, start stop traffic and polluted air,

changing at 5k with cheap oil even mineral is probably better than holding

Most likely too busy to send for servicing at all, until engine stalled by sludge (one of my former Employer's habit)

on for 10 or 15k.

 

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actually because this is the 1st time in my life i have paid $14 for the cost of oil for my oil change... NEVER IN MY LIFE... [laugh]

 

and the fact is that c@rlube is an 'ok' oil... but many here seems to think otherwise...

 

but when i saw it last time i was so turned off by the bottle.. but after a littele bit of research, i think its really ok...

 

 

aiyo bro, good just share with friends teo ho, don't promote until price increase. [laugh]

 

or you know the lady who bring in the oil? :D

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