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Why do YOU think C@rlube is lousy? i mean seriously...


Ken4555
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I was using c-----e for a few years.

 

I realised that the oil degraded fast in terms of viscosity - low oil pressure and valve lifter ticking even before 5K kms. The oil change interval I set for c-----e oil was max 5K but I didn't feel the oil was living up to the 5K mark.

 

I changed to Mobil 1 which, when on sale, goes for around $60 +/-. For double the price of the c-----e I get double the life of the oil with stable oil pressure and no valve tick throughout. So if I amortise over a 10K oil change, the Mobil 1 is a better deal with better performance from the oil. Seat of the pants dyno tells you nothing but fuel mileage increase is marginal. I use 5W50 Mobil because mine is a conti and service manual says its fine. I see negligible fuel savings especially in our weather.

 

I have been working on my own cars for over 20 years. I do my own oil changes so labour cost is not a factor and filter is just $8. But for those of you paying to get this job done my advice is to look at the long run with a better oil. 1) peace of mind, 2 better performace 3) value for money.

 

In fact I will go so far as to speculate that some mineral oils from reputable companies (Castrol, Duckhams, Mobil, comes to mind) might be better than c-----e. The word "synthetic" is overused just like the word "nano" - it means nothing nowadays.

 

This is my personal experience to share.

 

 

thanks for sharing...

 

for me i usually always change my oil at 5-6kmax... for my previous car which were all COE cars, i usually use a 10W-50 or 15W/50...

 

now i got this sunny, i use 5W/40... now coming to 70k milage... my sunny uses very little engine oil... 2.5liters-2.7liters... when i get a 5liter bottle i can use it twice with some oil treatment...

 

i would love to use it till 10k... that would be substantil savings over my previous oils $130/4

Liters without labour charge yet... NA RACING..

 

but basically the EO cost for my single oil change is like abt $14.... so i see it a great idea to use it only till 5k... i mean... say my car 2.5-2.7 liters EO to use 10k VS a merc abt 6liters of EO to use 10k... [dizzy]

 

actually i sincerly think, whatever additives in the EO, thicker oil = more protection and not so good FC... thinner oil gets better FC... so if everyone wants better FC and more HP... then all should use 0W/20 or 0W/30 lah... but why not? protection issues? (lets leave out rotary engines or twin turbo charged cars) well maybe some EOs have very high tec slippery additives... to reduce friction compared to a similar vicosity EO... so thus the high price.. but i heard many additives are know to harden over long use... and most will interfer with the flow rate in the oil filter...

 

i could be all wrong.. but hey... FC not as good as my neighbours car is not going to kill me.. my EO causing me to get less 1-2bhp compared to my neighbour's car does not effect me... But a nice smooth ride... thats what i want...

 

cheers happy driving all. [drivingcar]

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I have to stress one very common misconception here. People always think that when the oil is associated with motorsports, it means its good stuff.

 

We have to note that the engine oil used in motorsports is very different from oil used in our normal sedans. The additive package is different and most important thing is that its not meant to last. After the race, the oil is drain out and replaced. One very good eg of racing oil is Amsoil dominator. Its designed for track use only and not meant to last. You don't pour it into your engine and expect it to last 10,000KM.

 

c-----e does involve itself heavily in motorsports mainly for marketing reasons. However this does not mean their oil for mass market is superior. Neither does it mean its inferior either (just because its cheap).

 

I have not tried c-----e before but from what I was told by friends who have used them. Its pretty decent. Not that fantastic compared some brands (some claim Mobil one better, some claim Redline better etc). But all say that its cheap and it works and they get decent FC out of it.

 

Think of it as mainstream oil. Its not high performance oil. If you track with it and get overheated or blown engine, don't blame the oil. Its simply because the oil is not designed for tracking purpose. HOwever, it meets requires of API:SM, BMW LL04, ACEA C3 etc. Thus its not an inferior oil.

 

If you ask me if I will ever use it. My answer is no. Because I need 50wt oil and they don't have it. Thus I don't want to risk using 40wt oil and it may be too thin for my car.

 

I have tried Motul and I don't want to go back to it again because I don't feel anything fantastic abt it regardless of what others say. I don't track and perhaps the extra protection is useless to me. I stick with Amsoil which may not be as good as Motul but it muc cheaper and it works for me.

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ken, why is it that you have to keep proving c-----e is cheap and good ? :D anyway myself had used it and i find it as good as any other brand of eo which are more expensive.

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i could be all wrong.. but hey... FC not as good as my neighbours car is not going to kill me.. my EO causing me to get less 1-2bhp compared to my neighbour's car does not effect me... But a nice smooth ride... thats what i want...

 

cheers happy driving all. [drivingcar]

 

EO will have impact on HP meh [sly] ? You mean engine responsiveness or butt feel is it?

 

Regards,

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Neutral Newbie

To summarize, those people who procrastinate so much about this EO issue are just typical Singapore.

 

Ai pi, Ai qi, Ai tua liap ni mindset

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Just wonder, whether it is better to go with a branded and more expensive EO and run for 10K or get a cheaper EO, which does the samething but get changed every 5k? Given both cost are the same.

 

Regards,

 

So far, I have used CLTR and quite satisfied with it. Gone beyond 5k but short of a full 10k mileage. I usually drained my oil around 8k plus.

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ken, why is it that you have to keep proving c-----e is cheap and good ? :D anyway myself had used it and i find it as good as any other brand of eo which are more expensive.

 

Same sentiments.

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I have used C@rlube before for my 1K, 5K and 10K service. Changed to Schaeffer 7K on my 20K and 30K service. Then to Schaeffer 9K on my 40K service. So you can see I have limited experience with different brands of engine oil. [laugh]

 

I will say that C@rlube does the job well for an engine oil of this price. Although I have to be honest, I could feel the oil shearing down at around 7 to 8k mileage. Rough and loud engine idling are the tell-tale factors. Schaeffer performs better in this aspect.

 

So you gain some, you lose some. I think if anyone were to use C@rlube, a 7k or 8K OCI would be best.

 

 

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I have used C@rlube before for my 1K, 5K and 10K service. Changed to Schaeffer 7K on my 20K and 30K service. Then to Schaeffer 9K on my 40K service. So you can see I have limited experience with different brands of engine oil. [laugh]

 

I will say that C@rlube does the job well for an engine oil of this price. Although I have to be honest, I could feel the oil shearing down at around 7 to 8k mileage. Rough and loud engine idling are the tell-tale factors. Schaeffer performs better in this aspect.

 

So you gain some, you lose some. I think if anyone were to use C@rlube, a 7k or 8K OCI would be best.

 

I just had a change to Schaeffer yesterday. Intend to use it for 5k~6k. So far so good. I was told RP shear like C.lube. Have not tried RP though.

 

Regards,

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^^Schaeffer 9000 can be used for extended oil change intervals. Have used it between 12 to 15,000km intervals before with good UOA results.

 

This is my go-to oil at the moment for its affordable pricing, good additive package and longevity.

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I just had a change to Schaeffer yesterday. Intend to use it for 5k~6k. So far so good. I was told RP shear like C.lube. Have not tried RP though.

 

Regards,

Schaeffer 9K can last 10K. No worries. 7K will shear off slightly before 10K. I think around 9K.

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Schaeffer 9K can last 10K. No worries. 7K will shear off slightly before 10K. I think around 9K.

 

If you want a lasting oil and at affordable price. I think Amsoil is the one to go. Else, Schaffer 9000 is good enough. I agree that those oil that are mean for performance sheers down fast, good example is Sh*** He*** Ult**, it breaks down at around 3000km on my ride and I have to flush it out. Another good example that I used before was mob** go**, but lasted quite abit more, around 5k+ but can feel its starting to feel sluggish. c-----e is quite ok till 7k but I did not use further as I normally will not use EO more than 5k.

 

For now on Schaffer 9000. It gives me better mileage as well, will try Amsoil next since they are about the same price.

 

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For our environment, it is better to change at 10k than 5k. Conti's 15k is the best.

 

Are you serious??? Under Kia owner manual, Sg temp condition is consider extreme conditions and needs to change EO at about 7500km... At least that is what the Korean manual states.

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I have used C@rlube before for my 1K, 5K and 10K service. Changed to Schaeffer 7K on my 20K and 30K service. Then to Schaeffer 9K on my 40K service. So you can see I have limited experience with different brands of engine oil. [laugh]

 

I will say that C@rlube does the job well for an engine oil of this price. Although I have to be honest, I could feel the oil shearing down at around 7 to 8k mileage. Rough and loud engine idling are the tell-tale factors. Schaeffer performs better in this aspect.

 

So you gain some, you lose some. I think if anyone were to use C@rlube, a 7k or 8K OCI would be best.

 

Which is perfect for me. :D

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^^Schaeffer 9000 can be used for extended oil change intervals. Have used it between 12 to 15,000km intervals before with good UOA results.

 

This is my go-to oil at the moment for its affordable pricing, good additive package and longevity.

 

I will try Schaeffer 9000 next time round. [:p]

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