Come on in if you are into cheap engine oils...

[Ken4555]

==============

 

Just check the weighting of the oil can already. The "W" (winter) I disregard as not so important. I just see the summer temp 40 deg. Celcius is safer. Can use the 30 deg but then our temp average 32 deg & sometimes go to 35 deg even.

 

I just play safe with 40 deg. Plus if I whack, the slightly thicker oil sud give more protection. Only I lose some FC but since mine is JB cheap petrol, FC not so important to me.

 

makes sense...

 

i understand we can ignore the winter rating... but what exactly is the difference between 0W/40 and 5W/40 and 10W/40 and 15W/40.... i am sure there will be differences at start up wear... what do you know from your knowledge?

 

or any other bros wanna share what they know?

 

 

[Pisces69]

after i heard STP got sued before... i have never used their products ever... if you notice the oil treatment can says... protects your engine by providing a thicker cushion between metal moving parts... maybe gd for your TC car but for a normal saloon i guess it just makes the FC go up... just my opinion...

 

and your initial thoughts of Amsoil, reminds me of when i first heard of Ultraman Engine oil... i laughed myself sick... i though maybe there will be a Hello Kitty Engine Oil... hahaha... but after finding out more, UltraMan oil is pretty well certified... but then thats just what i read...

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Many oil additives wil just thicken the oil to make the engine sound quieter so pple think its good.

 

I rather save the $$$ for more oil changes. Nothing like fresh clean oil for your engine.

[Ken4555]

===========

 

Many oil additives wil just thicken the oil to make the engine sound quieter so pple think its good.

 

I rather save the $$$ for more oil changes. Nothing like fresh clean oil for your engine.

 

took the words right out of my mouth... feels even better if clean airfilter, new plugs... yeah...

 

the scary thing about oil additives is some dont mix with certain oils properly, and end up stuck in a corner of the engine... becoming sludge eventually... thats bad...

[Pisces69]

makes sense...

 

i understand we can ignore the winter rating... but what exactly is the difference between 0W/40 and 5W/40 and 10W/40 and 15W/40.... i am sure there will be differences at start up wear... what do you know from your knowledge?

 

or any other bros wanna share what they know?

================

 

The difference is during very cold temp start-ups, the oil wil still b able to flow tru the freezing engine. But making oils with wider viscosity costs more so u might lose some other benefits as they cut costs on other additives in the oil to b able to make it competitive.

 

Some pple still stick to single grade oil like 30 weight as the price is lower & u get more value for $$$. Especially in SG where we dont have very cold temp.

 

Start-up in warm SG where temp seldom goes below 28 deg celcius, u dont really need a winter oil of say 5 deg cel. At 28 deg, the oil is still very fluid.

 

[Pisces69]

took the words right out of my mouth... feels even better if clean airfilter, new plugs... yeah...

 

the scary thing about oil additives is some dont mix with certain oils properly, and end up stuck in a corner of the engine... becoming sludge eventually... thats bad...

=============

 

Yes. There have been cases of additives actually screwing up your engine.

 

I had that happen to a bike & 2 of my cars long ago. Now I very careful of what I add to my oil/petrol.

 

Have u heard of TMT, PTFE? Do a search & u wil know what happened to me. Its a Teflon additive which wil damage your engine after maybe 20K km.

[Ml2spin]

hi...

 

a K20A on c@rlube for 5years... r u living in Singpore or the UK? wats the vocosity you using?

 

if a screaming V-tec can rely on c@rlube... i dont see why any other engine cant...

 

and porsche approves c@rlube right?

 

just asking thanks...

 

Here lah! The Triple R 5W40 lor -- which is the correct weight according to the JDM manual's spec list. Went on two track days at Sepang and quite a few trips up to KL and beyond with this oil.

[Picanto]

tats all?... cheapo man?... i thought YOU were the cheapo complain/bargain labour charge too much... idiot... as if ppl take gun/knife ask you patronise their workshop... choose to go there but complain expensive... now THATS stupid...

 

anyways cheapo better than a fcuking balls-less retarded brainless dumb prick idiot hiding behind the computer like a mouse... tsk tsk...

 

pot calling the kettle black

[Kb27]

makes sense...

 

i understand we can ignore the winter rating... but what exactly is the difference between 0W/40 and 5W/40 and 10W/40 and 15W/40.... i am sure there will be differences at start up wear... what do you know from your knowledge?

 

or any other bros wanna share what they know?

 

The 0w usually starts thinner at 40 deg C, that's based on specs.

 

Cold starts is also where the greatest amount of engine wear occurs.

 

Now, whether 0w or 10w protects better during cold start is a question..

[Mini-itx]

The 0w usually starts thinner at 40 deg C, that's based on specs.

 

Cold starts is also where the greatest amount of engine wear occurs.

 

Now, whether 0w or 10w protects better during cold start is a question..

 

0wt should provide better flow during cold starts but it doesn't matter that much to us. Its more of a concern in winter countries because the oil will become very thick during winter (temps of -10C or lower).

[Mini-itx]

=============

 

Yes. There have been cases of additives actually screwing up your engine.

 

I had that happen to a bike & 2 of my cars long ago. Now I very careful of what I add to my oil/petrol.

 

Have u heard of TMT, PTFE? Do a search & u wil know what happened to me. Its a Teflon additive which wil damage your engine after maybe 20K km.

 

PTFE? Thats a big no no! Talking about additives, only certain additives are known to work and is really beneficial to engine. Eg. ZDDP and MoS2 additives. They have been around for decades and is known to work.

 

Thats why I trust STP oil treatment. Its basically ZDDP + viscosity indexers to make oil thicker. Lquimoly MoS2 is also good stuff but prices are crazy here in SG.

 

 

As for the rest of the additives like Prolong, Slick50 etc..... can forget about them.....

[Beehive3783]

Hmm, a topic on cheap engine oil.. rare to come by..

 

Well, so far I have used Karlube and Schaeffer on my car before.

 

mileage 1K to 20K - Karlube Triple R w40 full synthetic

mileage 20K to 40K - Schaeffer 7000 w20 semi synthetic

mileage 40K to 46K - Schaeffer 9000 w30 full synthetic

 

I personally find that Schaeffer 7000 and Karlube Triple R starts getting rough around 7K to 8K km mileage. Karlube is slightly rougher on idling. Personally I find nothing wrong with Karlube, but on my 20K service I just went to try Schaeffer. No Amsoil or Redline for me cos I don't see the need for such expensive oils. I'm only driving a normal 4 door kimchi saloon.

 

Currently I'm on Schaeffer 9000, it's the cheapest full synthetic GF4 certified oil I can find. After reading some of the replies here especially the bro using it on his K20A, I might be going back to Karlube for my next oil change.

Edited June 15, 2010 by Beehive3783

[Kb27]

I haven't really used cheap or mineral oil, I guess it can't hurt.

But I do hear people saying mineral oil gets sluggish very quickly after 5k.

So as long as you're changing it out at 5k, it should not be a problem.

 

Also you got to factor in the labour costs of doing 2x oil change with mineral vs 1x with synthetic.

If you're DIYing, then maybe that's not a real problem unless you get tired of changing oil.

[Kb27]

PTFE? Thats a big no no! Talking about additives, only certain additives are known to work and is really beneficial to engine. Eg. ZDDP and MoS2 additives. They have been around for decades and is known to work.

 

Thats why I trust STP oil treatment. Its basically ZDDP + viscosity indexers to make oil thicker. Lquimoly MoS2 is also good stuff but prices are crazy here in SG.

 

 

As for the rest of the additives like Prolong, Slick50 etc..... can forget about them.....

PTFE was marketed by Slick 50 and was shutdown by FTC

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_additive

 

Most modern day car engines does not use flat tappets and does not need as much, if any, ZDDP

Latest API SM has further diminished ZDDP due to cat poisoning.

As for MoS2, it is the soluble moly that is effective like those found in Schaeffer, and not so much the insoluble MoS2.

 

The baseline is not to go anyhow add in stuffs when the blenders has already done their millon dollar research before production.

[Dwoon]

Not true leh uncle...... it not only sounds quieter (which is a good to have thing)...... but it reduces my oil consumption leh........

 

===========

 

Many oil additives wil just thicken the oil to make the engine sound quieter so pple think its good.

 

I rather save the $$$ for more oil changes. Nothing like fresh clean oil for your engine.

 

[Beehive3783]

I haven't really used cheap or mineral oil, I guess it can't hurt.

But I do hear people saying mineral oil gets sluggish very quickly after 5k.

So as long as you're changing it out at 5k, it should not be a problem.

 

Also you got to factor in the labour costs of doing 2x oil change with mineral vs 1x with synthetic.

If you're DIYing, then maybe that's not a real problem unless you get tired of changing oil.

I don't DIY my oil change, mainly because I have no avenue to dispose the used oil.

 

I have not used mineral oil before, so no comments about that, but for Karlube, yes it gets rough around 8K or so. But during the time I used Karlube, i still held off the oil change till 10K interval.

[Acemundo]

where is lubezone? hehe, interested to get the engine oil 0w-50 schaeffer

 

by the way, semi syn good enough for turbo car?

[Vtim]

where is lubezone? hehe, interested to get the engine oil 0w-50 schaeffer

 

by the way, semi syn good enough for turbo car?

 

 

wah, you change to T/C car liao, which model

[Mini-itx]

PTFE was marketed by Slick 50 and was shutdown by FTC

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_additive

 

Most modern day car engines does not use flat tappets and does not need as much, if any, ZDDP

Latest API SM has further diminished ZDDP due to cat poisoning.

As for MoS2, it is the soluble moly that is effective like those found in Schaeffer, and not so much the insoluble MoS2.

 

The baseline is not to go anyhow add in stuffs when the blenders has already done their millon dollar research before production.

 

Mine ish old car. Still using flat tappets, thus need ZDDP else it will wear out very fast.

 

Btw, Liquimoly also has MoS2. I think they are the one who came out with it first right? But Autobacs prices is.....lol.....daylight robbery.