Need recomendation for cheapest engine oil in Singapore...

[Tigershark1976]

i used to buy toyota 10W30 mineral oil at $16/4L to flush my engine (use it for 500km to 1000km every 20K). However, the price have been increase from $16 to $17, then to $18 and now, $22....

 

Anyone have any lobang for cheap engine oil? viscosity and quality is not an issue for me since my intention is just to clean up the engine by running the oil in my engine for a short interval...

[ER-3682]

i used to buy toyota 10W30 mineral oil at $16/4L to flush my engine (use it for 500km to 1000km every 20K). However, the price have been increase from $16 to $17, then to $18 and now, $22....

 

Anyone have any lobang for cheap engine oil? viscosity and quality is not an issue for me since my intention is just to clean up the engine by running the oil in my engine for a short interval...

Go for China,single grade engine oil[sAE 40],comes in 18L metal tin,very cheap.

 

[Tigershark1976]

Go for China,single grade engine oil[sAE 40],comes in 18L metal tin,very cheap.

 

 

roughly how much per tin?

[Cerano]

bro

 

why you use cheap oil to flush?? must use flushing oil to flush la. your oil 10W30 so thick cannot reach...

 

flush also no use

[Fennmax]

Try Carrefour. 5L for $20+. Made in Spore.

[Etnt]

curious what a short 500 to 1000km can flush unless maybe using a HDEO with strong detergent package. If really wanna get rid of gunk inside, would using mineral and 1 cycle of autorx achieve better results?

[Speedz76]

try the ows engine flush?

 

http://www.ows.com.au/products_vitamins.html

 

before you change your old oil, just need to pour the contents in the container and miz it with your old oil, start your engine and let it run for 5 mins, then drain, job done, pour in your new oil

[Tigershark1976]

try the ows engine flush?

 

http://www.ows.com.au/products_vitamins.html

 

before you change your old oil, just need to pour the contents in the container and miz it with your old oil, start your engine and let it run for 5 mins, then drain, job done, pour in your new oil

 

 

thanks for the reccomendation but Im not really comfortable with any kind of engine flush...

[Ken4555]

dear all 'engine flush' believers.......

 

i'm not here to argue or prove i'm right or anything.... just sharing some facts i found out...

 

*most if not all engine flush are harmful to our engine gasket seals... more so to old harden gaskets...

 

*japanese trackies NEVER use flush in their engines...

 

*in an older car with accumulated carbon in the engine over the years... the engine flush might remove some carbon and the engine will actually lose some compression and the car loses some power...

 

 

i flushed my sunny at 46k... if i do drive it long enuf i'll probably flush it again at 80-100k... but to flush the engine at every oil is more damaging then good...

 

 

[Ken4555]

Do I need a flushing oil?

Unless there's something seriously wrong with your engine, like you've filled it with milk or shampoo, you really ought never to need a flushing oil. If you're transitioning from a mineral oil to a synthetic oil, likewise you probably don't need to flush the engine first.

If you do decide to do an oil flush, first drain your engine of all it's oil, but leave the old oil filter in place. Next fill it up with flushing oil and run it at a fast idle for about 20 minutes. Finally, drain all this off (and marvel at the crap that comes out with it), replace the oil filter, refill with a good synthetic oil and voila! Clean engine.

Of course, like most things nowadays, there's a condition attached when using flushing oils. In an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thin. I have heard of engines with over 280,000km that worked fine, but when flushed it failed in a month because the blow-by past the scraper ring (now really clean) contaminated the oil and screwed the rod bearings.

 

Using Diesel oil for flushing

A question came up some time ago about using diesel-rated oils to flush out petrol engines. The idea was that because of the higher detergent levels in diesel engine oil, it might be a good cleaner / flusher for a non-diesel engine. Well most of the diesel oil specification oils can be used in old petrol engines for cleaning, but you want to use a low specification oil to ensure that you do not over clean your engine and lose compression for example. Generally speaking, an SAE 15W/40 diesel engine oil for about 500 miles might do the trick.

 

Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html#ixzz0mPfy86sx

 

[Azarael]

agreed, i dont think engine flushing is recommended unless there is something wrong with the engine or there is too much carbon buildup. Ken4555 is likely to be correct. many cars that run for years and years do okay without any engine flushing. just using synthetic oil should be enough

[Ken4555]

If an engine recieves regular oil and filter changes and the theromstat is operating correctly, the engine will never need flushing.

 

As well as lubrication, the job of the oil is to remove contaminants from the engine and carry them to the filter or hold them in suspention.

 

For years oils have contained detergents to keep the engine clean and as long as the oil is changed at the correct intervals, the oil itself is what flushes the engine constantly.

 

There is no physical reason an engine needs to be " clean". Moving parts keep themselves clean in the critical areas and as long as oil gallerys are not blocked, some buildup on a conrod, valve spring or the inside of the sump does not matter.

 

If you maintain your engine correctly, the engine will never need flushing. If you have an engine that has buildup, flushing will shift little of it anyway. If you have ever torn down a poorly maintained engine you would see that nothing short of physical force ar a proper hotbath with highly caustic soloution will remove the baked on grunge. The build up that occours in engines is very difficult to shift and short of filling the engine completely and letting the soloution sit a good long while, any "flushing" of an engine you don't want to tear down will be overwhealmingly superficial.

 

One way to get an idea of engine buildup is to have a look inside the oil filler cap at the valve gear you can see. If it is free of buildup and clean despite what may be a coating of black oil, you know your engine is clean and free from buildup. If it has some deposits then you can gauge from this how much buildup there may be. Bear in mind that the top end of the engine will generally be worse than any other part of the engine so a bit of buildup here won't really matter.

 

The older the engine the more likely the buildup and also the amount of wear in an engine. If you were to strip an old engine, hot tank it to make it perfectly clean and then re-assemble it with the same worn components, your not going to get any noticeable benifit. Worn and leaky rings and valves are going to be much more detrimental to an engine than a bit of crud in the thing.

 

[Pisces69]

agreed, i dont think engine flushing is recommended unless there is something wrong with the engine or there is too much carbon buildup. Ken4555 is likely to be correct. many cars that run for years and years do okay without any engine flushing. just using synthetic oil should be enough

===============

 

I used my previous car, a Corona CD till 380K km / 19 years old & never did an engine oil flush. I just used good ol synthetic oil & changed every 10K km for trouble-free motoring.

 

Flushing & all those "extra" stuff some ws recommend is not really advisable as they only increase the profit margins of those ws.

 

[Ken4555]

Try Carrefour. 5L for $20+. Made in Spore.

 

i think u referring to c-----e... $20+ is 5W/40...

 

5W/30 is more expensive like 50-60 bucks.... i think...

 

but yes its 5Liters...

[Ken4555]

Bro...

 

actually i've been thinking of your method of using a cheap oil to flush the engine... i think its a great idea...but i assume after flushing you use a fully syn oil? if so have you considered some of the mineral oil left inside when you use the fully syn oil for 10k? the little mineral oil inside your engine might become sludge/gunk...

 

please ingore me if you are only using mineral oil through out...

 

 

 

 

 

[ER-3682]

roughly how much per tin?

[/quote

Ask for you today...

[Tigershark1976]

Bro...

 

actually i've been thinking of your method of using a cheap oil to flush the engine... i think its a great idea...but i assume after flushing you use a fully syn oil? if so have you considered some of the mineral oil left inside when you use the fully syn oil for 10k? the little mineral oil inside your engine might become sludge/gunk...

 

please ingore me if you are only using mineral oil through out...

 

 

not to worry about the left over mineral oil. Every oil change will leave some oil behind. the residue is too little to do any harm compare to those engine flush chemical...

[Furrynadz]

not to worry about the left over mineral oil. Every oil change will leave some oil behind. the residue is too little to do any harm compare to those engine flush chemical...

 

 

i think u still dont get the drift