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Increase of engine oil level found in dipstick


Yuan
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Bros, I don't need a extractor afterall. Realise my EO level is actually lower despite having more oil filled. (TS hope you don't mind me asking here)

 

X is the oil level and if u don't see a F, than oil level is at F point on dipstick.

 

0w40 - 4.4L filled

E---------X @ cold after 8hrs (Exactly at F point)

 

E---------F--X @ 90deg after 30min (Above F point)

 

 

20w50 - 4.75L filled

E------X--F @ cold after 8hrs (Below F point, read this is the recommended level)

 

E---------X @ 90deg after 30min (Exactly at F point)

 

 

This are measured within 50km of servicing and confirm no EO leak or consumption.

 

As you can see more oil is filled but it results in lower levels on the dipstick compared to a thinner oil.

 

Anyone can explain on this?

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I find it quite difficult to understand what u r trying to say here.

 

Maybe someone can explain what is being said??? [confused][confused]

 

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==============

 

I find it quite difficult to understand what u r trying to say here.

 

Maybe someone can explain what is being said??? [confused][confused]

 

My bad bro. Haha....ok I try to explain again....I notice a lower dipstick reading despite more oil going into the engine.

 

I just changed oil for my car. This time around I am using 20w-50 , previously was using 0w-40.

 

For this servicing, mech poured around 4.75L into the engine and the dipstick showed a lower reading compared to previously 4.4L poured for the 0w-40oil.

 

Hope I don't confuse you further. [laugh]

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My bad bro. Haha....ok I try to explain again....I notice a lower dipstick reading despite more oil going into the engine.

 

I just changed oil for my car. This time around I am using 20w-50 , previously was using 0w-40.

 

For this servicing, mech poured around 4.75L into the engine and the dipstick showed a lower reading compared to previously 4.4L poured for the 0w-40oil.

 

Hope I don't confuse you further. [laugh]

 

Did you check for any oil leakage under your car?

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Every type of car i drove, not once did I see the mech change the washer?

 

Thats why I was wondering if its really that necessary.

Mine was replaced at every oil change. The washer is cheap...around $.020 from stockist or around $1.20 from AD.

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Use your mouth to suck lah.... [:p]

 

 

================

 

Er.....I not vet leh. Where to get those large syringe?

 

Maybe i go turf club & see if they have cos they sometimes inject horse with Elephant juice. :D

 

Maybe a turkey baster wil b more appropriate?

 

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Bros, I don't need a extractor afterall. Realise my EO level is actually lower despite having more oil filled. (TS hope you don't mind me asking here)

 

X is the oil level and if u don't see a F, than oil level is at F point on dipstick.

 

0w40 - 4.4L filled

E---------X @ cold after 8hrs (Exactly at F point)

 

E---------F--X @ 90deg after 30min (Above F point)

 

 

20w50 - 4.75L filled

E------X--F @ cold after 8hrs (Below F point, read this is the recommended level)

 

E---------X @ 90deg after 30min (Exactly at F point)

 

 

This are measured within 50km of servicing and confirm no EO leak or consumption.

 

As you can see more oil is filled but it results in lower levels on the dipstick compared to a thinner oil.

 

Anyone can explain on this?

 

IMHO, thicker oil flows slower thus takes time to settle down. Try taking measurement an hour later see if there is any differences. Also, unless it can be measured exactly how much oil is drained before refilled with fresh oil, the values serves no purpose.

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Of late, my last few checks on my engine oil dipstick showed that my engine oil level has increased. This was first discovered about a month ago.

 

There are 2 tips on the dipstick. I noticed that since last month, the oil level has exceeded the upper tip of the dipstick. First check was in the morning when the engine was cold for more than 8 hours since the car was parked the night before. Did 2 further checks over the course of last few weeks. Level was above the upper tip. The increase was not slightly or too much during those cold or room temperature. There was also no oil leakage found.

 

However, when the car was driven and parked for a few hours, the oil level exceeded the upper tip by a bigger length (of course engine was still slightly hot and this is understandable).

 

Not sure whether this should be cause for concern. I know that if oil level drops, we need to take note or go workshop to top up by the same grade and brand engine oil. But for my case, it increases..... [sweatdrop]

 

I am using OWS NA engine oil. No grade was stated. First time trying this oil. Been using it for more than 8,500km mileage. My car's mileage is more than 86,000 km.

 

Hope to have some views from knowledgeable bros in this forum. Thanks! [wave]

 

IMHO... i had similar experiences and have concluded that the engine oil has thicken i.e. not suitable for your usage. [cool]

Do check your cooling system to be on the safe side. Within this oil change, did you travel across the causeway ?

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My simple cure whenever I slightly overfill with additives..... I go into Malaysia and give the car a good wacking... that somehow consumes the EO faster. Do that 2 or 3 occasions ( within 1 week)..... can liao. (Level drooped already)

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IMHO... i had similar experiences and have concluded that the engine oil has thicken i.e. not suitable for your usage. [cool]

Do check your cooling system to be on the safe side. Within this oil change, did you travel across the causeway ?

 

This is something new. Anyway, I won't go for that brand of engine oil.

 

My engine sounded coarse/rough after some mileage. And it is expensive.

 

Coolant system checked and they are alright.

 

Nope. Did not travel across the causeway.

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This is something new. Anyway, I won't go for that brand of engine oil.

 

My engine sounded coarse/rough after some mileage. And it is expensive.

 

Coolant system checked and they are alright.

 

Nope. Did not travel across the causeway.

===============

 

Just use C@rlube 40 weight synthetic is more than enough lah. Or try 30 weight synthetic if your engine is still very tight & u dont whack much.

 

Cheap & good. Ive been using for a long time already & no problems at all.

 

If u got $$$, get RP 40 weight synthetic. I used b4 when it was much cheaper. That is a very good oil. Maybe even better than Mobil 1.

 

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My bad bro. Haha....ok I try to explain again....I notice a lower dipstick reading despite more oil going into the engine.

 

I just changed oil for my car. This time around I am using 20w-50 , previously was using 0w-40.

 

For this servicing, mech poured around 4.75L into the engine and the dipstick showed a lower reading compared to previously 4.4L poured for the 0w-40oil.

 

Hope I don't confuse you further. [laugh]

 

==============

 

Using 40 or 50 weight oil sud not affect the level on the dipstick.

 

But checking oil level immediately after the engine is switched off & when the car is parked overnight wil show a noticeable difference though.

 

I always ask the mech to slightly under-fill when he do the EO change & I do a proper top-up to the "F" mark after the car has been parked for several hours. Even slightly under the "F" mark sud b OK but then u might feel the engine a little nosier or rougher but thats not a problem.

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Mine was replaced at every oil change. The washer is cheap...around $.020 from stockist or around $1.20 from AD.

 

=================

 

OK if like that, I think I wil insist my mech change it at the next service. [nod]

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Use your mouth to suck lah.... [:p]

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Sucking fresh milk is OK with me but oil is a [shakehead] .

 

I dont like the taste of the EO or ATF. I did suck b4 but I dont think its good for my health. [nosebleed]

 

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My simple cure whenever I slightly overfill with additives..... I go into Malaysia and give the car a good wacking... that somehow consumes the EO faster. Do that 2 or 3 occasions ( within 1 week)..... can liao. (Level drooped already)

============

 

Those who r scared of going to MY cos of robbery, car-jacking, TP or bo-sia can whack on our eways. [:p]

 

Or PM Dwoon or myself & we wil do the whacking for you FOC. :D

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This is something new. Anyway, I won't go for that brand of engine oil.

 

My engine sounded coarse/rough after some mileage. And it is expensive.

 

Coolant system checked and they are alright.

 

Nope. Did not travel across the causeway.

 

Perhaps my usage is unique... after many different brand/grade over 12 or 13 oil changes including sending a few samples for UOA ( interests ), I settled using a Redline mix. [;)]

 

So if your previous engine oil works for you, stick with it.

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===============

 

Just use C@rlube 40 weight synthetic is more than enough lah. Or try 30 weight synthetic if your engine is still very tight & u dont whack much.

 

Cheap & good. Ive been using for a long time already & no problems at all.

 

If u got $$$, get RP 40 weight synthetic. I used b4 when it was much cheaper. That is a very good oil. Maybe even better than Mobil 1.

 

Perhaps coincidental, every time my engine has C@rlube 40 inside, the engine top cover top gasket leak. [laugh]

I used Mobil 1 5w50, engine oil level also goes up.

Different usage pattern, different engine oil required.

 

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Perhaps coincidental, every time my engine has C@rlube 40 inside, the engine top cover top gasket leak. [laugh]

I used Mobil 1 5w50, engine oil level also goes up.

Different usage pattern, different engine oil required.

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Er I dont have that problem with CLTR leh?

 

Maybe your rubber O ring already hardened & it was the dirty deposits which was sealing the top cover from leaking & CLTR has good detergent qualities & it removed all the gunk which caused the oil to leak?

 

Have u tried Royal Purple 40 weight? That is a very good oil if u have the budget. Cost about the same as Mobil 1.

 

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Er I dont have that problem with CLTR leh?

 

Maybe your rubber O ring already hardened & it was the dirty deposits which was sealing the top cover from leaking & CLTR has good detergent qualities & it removed all the gunk which caused the oil to leak?

 

Have u tried Royal Purple 40 weight? That is a very good oil if u have the budget. Cost about the same as Mobil 1.

 

IIRC, first time <20k and second time around 80k. UOA (not mine) shows CLTR shears to 30 weight. Too thin for my use, got the "burnt" feeling but gives very good FC.

 

Since you using it right, can take a pic of the camshaft thru the engine oil filler cap? I want to compare with mine. <_<

 

 

I tried a lot already, settle for Redline. I've tried 0w40, 5w50, 5w40, 0w30 and 5w50, same issue.

 

 

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