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Modifying Air box


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Will wrapping up the CAI with heat insulation helps to lower the intake air temp? was thinking of doing it to mine, I drop the Simota Cone and replaced with K & N Tornado.

 

Open Pod is useless if you suck hot air from the engine bay. If you really want CAI to work, you need to duct cool air into the filter. Thats why stock airbox is good because it has a duct that links to outside the engine bay. You can insulate the pipes and airbox to reduce heatsoak.

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How abt stock air box and wrap with heat insulation i.e. armflex

I believe it will help abit... Wat do ur think?

 

Another ques is, use wat adhesive to stick the armflex to airbox?

 

Lastly, any recommended plc to but the flat piece of armflex?

 

Thanks..

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Neutral Newbie

I wrapped my car's air box with a 10mm heat insulating foam (not armaflex but similar and no brand) with contact glue (dunlop brand 200 degrees heat resistance) and the result is good. That said, no performance increased but rather pick up has improved. It's very to wrap although still will take you about 2-3 hours if you are a first timer: take out air box, wrap with heat insulating foam on ALL side (sides, top & bottom), put back air box, drive for about 15mins & feel the air filter. You will immediately notice that the air filter feels cooler than before. With the drop in air temperature, denser air gets into the intake manifold for combustion, thus better pick up. Hope this helps. [:)]

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Open Pod is useless if you suck hot air from the engine bay. If you really want CAI to work, you need to duct cool air into the filter. Thats why stock airbox is good because it has a duct that links to outside the engine bay. You can insulate the pipes and airbox to reduce heatsoak.

 

 

I am not using Open Pod, I only replace the stock air box with K & N Tornado (formally using Simota), I retain the stock setup leading from the wheel well (with a moded DIY CAI facing the front lower part of the bumper) to the K & N Tornado intake part and also stock setup from K & N Tornado to the BBTB.

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(edited)

I wrapped my car's air box with a 10mm heat insulating foam (not armaflex but similar and no brand) with contact glue (dunlop brand 200 degrees heat resistance) and the result is good. That said, no performance increased but rather pick up has improved. It's very to wrap although still will take you about 2-3 hours if you are a first timer: take out air box, wrap with heat insulating foam on ALL side (sides, top & bottom), put back air box, drive for about 15mins & feel the air filter. You will immediately notice that the air filter feels cooler than before. With the drop in air temperature, denser air gets into the intake manifold for combustion, thus better pick up. Hope this helps. [:)]

 

 

where do you get and how much is this no brand 10mm heat insulating foam ?

Edited by Vtim
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Neutral Newbie

I got it from Huat Rubber in Tuas. Near my workplace. It's made in Taiwan. If I remember correctly, it costs about $40-$48 for a 1m by 1.2m piece.

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Neutral Newbie

Both has it's pros and cons. Really depends on what you want. I'm driving an auto kia cerato and tried open pod. Found it too noisy and sold it away. Now back to panel filter (stainless steel) + heat shield air box + CAI. So far so good. Honestly, I feel those ILLEGAL mods yield the most performance gains. I've changed to an after market semi-flow muffler and it is one mod which produce the most gain. But then again, it's really up to you.

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I got it from Huat Rubber in Tuas. Near my workplace. It's made in Taiwan. If I remember correctly, it costs about $40-$48 for a 1m by 1.2m piece.

 

 

thanks for the detail, I may drop by month end to buy it

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Neutral Newbie

The one which I bought was 10mm in thickness. The armaflex you mentioned is 6mm in thickness. The price between the ones from Huat Rubber and Armaflex doesn't differ much.

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Hmm..i was wondering if sticking heatsinks( like those used in computer cpu) at the opening of the stock air duct helps dissipate the heat from the air that was sucked it when accelerates?? everything else remain stock. or if it helps to install a cpu fan at the a corner in the engine near the air intake duct to circulate the air there? heh

Edited by Zenith_Mazda
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Neutral Newbie

The one which I bought was 10mm in thickness. The armaflex you mentioned is 6mm in thickness. The price between the ones from Huat Rubber and Armaflex doesn't differ much.

What kind of glue or technique u use to insulate your airbox; since it's just beside the engine? I'm worried if use contact adhesive will leave a sticky mess next time when removing the armaflex. Thanks.

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Hmm..i was wondering if sticking heatsinks( like those used in computer cpu) at the opening of the stock air duct helps dissipate the heat from the air that was sucked it when accelerates?? everything else remain stock. or if it helps to install a cpu fan at the a corner in the engine near the air intake duct to circulate the air there? heh

 

 

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Neutral Newbie
(edited)

have anyone tried it.?

 

my stock filter is like a cone drop in, but the air box is very restrictive. so i intend to open a few holes.

 

i was wondering jus drill like 15~20 holes of 5mm holes is good...

 

or i am looking for these plugs

 

anyone seen the plugs where to get?

 

pls advice.

 

 

 

 

you may note a change in sound from the intake (louder) but there will be zero gains. more than likely there will be loses - especially if your going to be pulling hot air from the engine bay.

 

 

aftermarket cai are the biggest con in the industry.

 

 

anyone that tells you otherwise has never done a dyno comparison. (stock car)

 

stock intakes more than do the job (do you really think the manf is so stupid? intakes are sooo simple to design - ots a piece of cake to determine the required pressure drop and design a cai accordingly!)

 

making it less restrictive will not increase air flow into the engine unless you need more air than a stock engine needs (in other words you would need to mod the headers or add forced induction or some other mod that enables the engine to have a higher flowrate)

 

im sure you will get a lot of people telling you their car 'feels' faster but if done with no other mod - its all in their heads, dynos dont lie

 

 

this myth has been debunked so many times on dynos its time it dies

 

 

 

key thing is to only bring air in from high pressure zone in front of car. insulating the filter box (and trunking) has very little impact given the gas velocities but cant hurt.

Edited by Badder
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Neutral Newbie

Hmm..i was wondering if sticking heatsinks( like those used in computer cpu) at the opening of the stock air duct helps dissipate the heat from the air that was sucked it when accelerates?? everything else remain stock. or if it helps to install a cpu fan at the a corner in the engine near the air intake duct to circulate the air there? heh

 

 

given the gas velocities at play i doubt there being any significant heat transfer.

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the best modify air box is bedok industrial blk 3012 driving honda euro r sgt 8116 name is eric fegurson he is awesome

 

he's from Manchester United & charges in pounds?

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