Re-routing battery to the boot

[Nmnhnlm]

Yes, its entirely possible to move your battery to the trunk. Thats what I have done for my Celica. Only issuse is that you need to rip out the fittings and carpet to lay cable. It a hassle and will take at least half a day to complete. As for cables, just get them from Sim Lim Square 2nd storey. LHS cable shop. Ask for thick gauge or even solid core Belden cables.

[Dwoon]

If you really want to prolong your batt... get a charger cum de-sulphating thinggy.

 

My previous Amaron (70Ah) wanted to die on me at the 2 year mark. I kept it alive for another year by charging the batt once every month. When I finally changed it, it was still working except that it could not store sufficient charge to crank after 3 days. If i was a daily user, then it'd be fine..... but I usually go on holidays whereby the car is left parked for more than 3 days......

 

I'm now on another 70Ah Amaron and with the charger, I'm still practising the monthly charge of 8 hours. hopefully with this practise, it'll extend the batt life to well over 2 years....... fyi, my car's underhood temp is way hotter than the average car ( about 70 to 80 deg I'd figure because of the turbo)

 

So if you want to make a contraption, I'd propose making a quick release for the batt so that you can easily remove it for charging if you don't have access for connecting the charger while its mounted inside.

 

My 2 cents.....

Edited January 18, 2010 by Dwoon

[Lotz]

Yes, its entirely possible to move your battery to the trunk. Thats what I have done for my Celica. Only issuse is that you need to rip out the fittings and carpet to lay cable. It a hassle and will take at least half a day to complete. As for cables, just get them from Sim Lim Square 2nd storey. LHS cable shop. Ask for thick gauge or even solid core Belden cables.

 

This is a very dangerous DIY unless you know exactly what you are doing. Running long battery wiring to car interior part without proper insulation and short circuit protection is at high risk of fire!

 

I strongly discourage such DIY for those without strong electrical background otherwise you are compromising your $50-100k car vs the annual $150 battery replacement excluding the risk of passenger's life. Just my 5cents...

[Mustank]

Thanks man! i must go and see which accesory shop got this type of material

[Yeobh]

When selecting battery cable, basic guide line is to make sure it does not heat up due to high current flow resistance. Battery cables are basically those use in welding machines, and when selecting try to get cables with as much strain of thin copper wires. Thick wire create high resistance to electrone flow that means heat will be generated.

Both end of cables should be properly crimped with lugs to prevent air gap which will create high current flow resistance and prevent formation of corrosion.

Routing cable to the car boot is a long cable that is lay on the floorboard which is also the battery ground, so in the event of any cut or damage along the cable insulation, the live wire is exposed and may come into contact with the car chassis. This may result in short circuit and the worst may happen - fire. Try to run the cable in another layer of insulation such as flexible conduit.