Which engine oil work best in your car

[Felipe]

well its not that good for the bearings as well due to the fact that the oil cant flow properly when the engine is cold...hence for my case in the morn I'll have to warm up my engine abit before moving off...@ the same time waking my neighbours up with my Poppy exhaust

 

another theory i heard about warming up is its not good to warm up by leaving engine idling. proper warming up is actually driving off upon start up, but keeping revs low and cruising till the engine gets up to temperature. at least in F1, that's how the cars warm up! not sure about road cars

[Naimster]

I used Mugen Racing Oil 5w40 once...it was very good. Very smooth and free revving. It's like a few horses added to the engine. But Mugen was too expensive, so I went on to try cheaper alternatives. Tried Amsoil 5w40. It was good but no where near Mugen. My current oil is Voltronic 5w40. This is very good. Better than Amsoil. Almost comparable to Mugen but at a more sane price.

[Freifeit]

u wont be able to see sludges unless u drain or open up the covers

 

I do the oil-change on my own. Of course I can see & feel the used oil condition during draining process..

[Robo]

I do the oil-change on my own. Of course I can see & feel the used oil condition during draining process..

 

i tot u havent changed yet... anyways i wanna change myself too but no tools..nice

[Laukuikor]

Thicker oil don't protect better, that's a misconception. In fact 70-80% of engine wear occurs during start-up and thicker oil is detrimental due to lower start up flowrate. The only benefit of using thicker oil is if your engine hit a higher oil temp, say for example you turbo/super charge it, race/track it or drives at sustain high speed. As a guide, every 10'c increase above 100'c oil temp will need an increase of 1 oil weight, so if you are running at 120'c during NSH run, then you will need a 50wt oil instead of 30wt.

 

 

I will like to ask you 1 question since you are one of the oil expert here.

What is the reasons if the FC drops after the engine oil has gone through about 7-8k? Petrol, driving pattern and traffic conditions remains the same. Only change is engine oil brand.

 

[Robo]

I will like to ask you 1 question since you are one of the oil expert here.

What is the reasons if the FC drops after the engine oil has gone through about 7-8k? Petrol, driving pattern and traffic conditions remains the same. Only change is engine oil brand.

 

as your oil is lubricating the parts within the engine its also cleaning them making them free of carbon, as a result the carbon is being absorbed thats why we see that the oil becomes black overtime thus making it thicker. some oils have better cleaning agent and endurance for carbon so they will not affect the performance before 10k. or some long life oil is able last 15-20k. i seriously dont think one should use it that long. many engine oils will gradually slow the performance around 7-10k.

 

thats why many peeps out there change their oils between that period.

 

for example im using redline, performance for redline is shoik from 0-9k but after that bo lat liao. every suffers.. so i normally change around 8k.

 

hope it helps..

 

im not very technical too.. just sharing wad i know.

[Laukuikor]

as your oil is lubricating the parts within the engine its also cleaning them making them free of carbon, as a result the carbon is being absorbed thats why we see that the oil becomes black overtime thus making it thicker. some oils have better cleaning agent and endurance for carbon so they will not affect the performance before 10k. or some long life oil is able last 15-20k. i seriously dont think one should use it that long. many engine oils will gradually slow the performance around 7-10k.

 

thats why many peeps out there change their oils between that period.

 

for example im using redline, performance for redline is shoik from 0-9k but after that bo lat liao. every suffers.. so i normally change around 8k.

 

hope it helps..

 

im not very technical too.. just sharing wad i know.

 

I find is puzzling that when an engine oil is stated to last or protect for 10K it should perform "consistently for that duration and not degrade before 10K.

 

[Robo]

I find is puzzling that when an engine oil is stated to last or protect for 10K it should perform "consistently for that duration and not degrade before 10K.

 

well.. i somehow classify it as advertising gimmick.. but it also depends alot on your driving pattern and age of the engine.

 

if u bring your car to track u might need to change it after the session.

 

just like if u like to whack the car more often den your oil might not last u that long after all.

 

cars like evo and WRXs change their oil every 5k even though they use full synthetic.

 

so it really depends on the model of your car, age, and your driving pattern

[Golfballstick]

I'm using Amsoil SSO 0w30 now and have been getting pretty good FC.

 

 

Im currently on SSO 0w30 and before switching was on redline 5w30.

 

Redline offer the "light-throttle-feel" plus good response and FC is probably 3-5% better than SSO. However, it does not last that long. My engine sound and feel different at around 7k km, even CO has the same comment.

 

SSO despite being stated w30, it really feel like w40 as engine is less responsive as compare to redline. Currently into 9k km w SSO, the oil still feel like new, so far this oil perform consistently and u really got this feeling that the engine is well lubricated. The drawaback here slightly higher FC.

 

Anyone experience Castrol edge 0W40?

[Laukuikor]

well.. i somehow classify it as advertising gimmick.. but it also depends alot on your driving pattern and age of the engine.

 

if u bring your car to track u might need to change it after the session.

 

just like if u like to whack the car more often den your oil might not last u that long after all.

 

cars like evo and WRXs change their oil every 5k even though they use full synthetic.

 

so it really depends on the model of your car, age, and your driving pattern

as mention earlier, nothing change except oil brand? no tracking no chionging.

could it be the engine oil is not protecting for full 10K?

 

 

 

[Mercuri]

I find is puzzling that when an engine oil is stated to last or protect for 10K it should perform "consistently for that duration and not degrade before 10K.

 

just to share... alll engine oil has TBN(Total Base number) which refers to the index(if my memory serves me right) at which there are still additives left in the oil which protects your engine. So the longer you drive, the number will get lower until a certain TBN level(cant rember what level) which the oil do not provide any protection to your engine.

 

To acertained if your oil is still useful, best to do UOA. This will give u better idea how much longer you want to keep your oil in there.

 

hope this help!

[Ralli_lancer]

I tried ows oil, blitz turbo oil and hks turbo oil. all work quite well.

[Robo]

as mention earlier, nothing change except oil brand? no tracking no chionging.

could it be the engine oil is not protecting for full 10K?

 

as wad the above post says.. e oil has lost its nutrients...

[Kr_toy]

I will like to ask you 1 question since you are one of the oil expert here.

What is the reasons if the FC drops after the engine oil has gone through about 7-8k? Petrol, driving pattern and traffic conditions remains the same. Only change is engine oil brand.

 

engine oil consists of base oil and additives.

On syntethic engine oil the base oil only changes very slightly during the period, but the additives will deplete with the usage, eg. neutralizing acids, dissolving dirts, friction modifier used up.

So the fc drops most likely due to the additives are no longer there and the oil normally thickens, this cause the fc drops.

 

Some brands of oil resists this better than the rest, because they are designed for long drain interval.

Unfortunately US-graded oil does not have this detail specification, even though SM grade is much better than the older grade. The easiest way is to look at the European specification, most of the A5-04 are capable of long drain. If you look for thicker oil, then A3-04 or BMW Longlife or VW-spec offer certification on extended drain.

Keep in mind this spec is revised regularly, therefore even though some people said Carl*** is good for money, do not expect that much because most of them is spec for European standard of 1998 that is 10 years ago.

 

 

 

 

[Trex101]

I will like to ask you 1 question since you are one of the oil expert here.

What is the reasons if the FC drops after the engine oil has gone through about 7-8k? Petrol, driving pattern and traffic conditions remains the same. Only change is engine oil brand.

 

Too many variables but i would suspect the main culprit be oxidation(low quality base oil) or friction co-efficient depletion(can also be cause by more Si intake, bad air filtration).

[Laukuikor]

just to share... alll engine oil has TBN(Total Base number) which refers to the index(if my memory serves me right) at which there are still additives left in the oil which protects your engine. So the longer you drive, the number will get lower until a certain TBN level(cant rember what level) which the oil do not provide any protection to your engine.

 

To acertained if your oil is still useful, best to do UOA. This will give u better idea how much longer you want to keep your oil in there.

 

hope this help!

 

any easier way to know when the oil do not provide protection? even though the label on the bottle stated 10k?

I am inclinded to look at FC. would that be a good gauge?

 

[Laukuikor]

engine oil consists of base oil and additives.

On syntethic engine oil the base oil only changes very slightly during the period, but the additives will deplete with the usage, eg. neutralizing acids, dissolving dirts, friction modifier used up.

So the fc drops most likely due to the additives are no longer there and the oil normally thickens, this cause the fc drops.

 

Some brands of oil resists this better than the rest, because they are designed for long drain interval.

Unfortunately US-graded oil does not have this detail specification, even though SM grade is much better than the older grade. The easiest way is to look at the European specification, most of the A5-04 are capable of long drain. If you look for thicker oil, then A3-04 or BMW Longlife or VW-spec offer certification on extended drain.

Keep in mind this spec is revised regularly, therefore even though some people said Carl*** is good for money, do not expect that much because most of them is spec for European standard of 1998 that is 10 years ago.

 

When you mention oil thickens, does it mean the vicosity increase?

when additives are not performing for the full 10k, which they are suppose to do, thus causing FC to drop, does it mean that certain brand of engine oil is of inferior quality?

 

[Laukuikor]

Too many variables but i would suspect the main culprit be oxidation(low quality base oil) or friction co-efficient depletion(can also be cause by more Si intake, bad air filtration).

 

if bad air filtration is rule out, could this means low quality base oil?