Steven Neutral Newbie April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 My ride can show me the "health" of the battery vie a screen on the speedometer cluster. - 11.9V during the morning when engine is cold (lights & aircon off) - 12.3V when the engine is hot (lights & aircon off) - 13.6V when engine is running (should be the alternator reading) with lights, aircon on Based on these readings, izzit time to change batt? BTW, my Amaron Pro DIN66 batt is 2 yrs leow. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Help1 1st Gear April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 any sign of the battery dying on you? some ppl will change after the warranty ends, some change after 1.5 ys, some change after 2 yrs, some will change when the battery dies (this will typically cause the car owner KPKB if the battery dies on weekend/PH cos extra charges incur) since yours already 2 yrs, advise is to change how much is a battery as compare to the monthly installment Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fcw75 Hypersonic April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 The important reading is the one in the morning. If it's ard 12V means it's OK, the battery can still retain charge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legan 1st Gear April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 The readings does not tell you the most critical information - cranking health. - 11.9V during the morning when engine is cold (lights & aircon off) Your reading shows battery is holding it's charge - 12.3V when the engine is hot (lights & aircon off) Also shows it is holding it's charge - 13.6V when engine is running (should be the alternator reading) with lights, aircon on Shows Alternator and Charging circuit is working. I got myself a Battery Bug that tells me when my battery's cranking health is kaput. It will also tell me when the battery is not holding it's charge or when charging circuit is faulty. But the feature I like most is the cranking health info. Now I can keep my battery for as long as possible and change it just before it fails! Don't wanna get stranded in the morning! BTW, what ride are you having? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orac Clutched April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 Can show what does your battery bug looks like? How much does it cost? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legan 1st Gear April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 I forgot the local vendor's site. I'll PM you his number so you can contact him direct. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windchoco 1st Gear April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 hi bro,pls pm me the contact as well.. thx.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snookium 1st Gear April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 The readings does not tell you the most critical information - cranking health. - 11.9V during the morning when engine is cold (lights & aircon off) Your reading shows battery is holding it's charge - 12.3V when the engine is hot (lights & aircon off) Also shows it is holding it's charge - 13.6V when engine is running (should be the alternator reading) with lights, aircon on Shows Alternator and Charging circuit is working. I got myself a Battery Bug that tells me when my battery's cranking health is kaput. It will also tell me when the battery is not holding it's charge or when charging circuit is faulty. But the feature I like most is the cranking health info. Now I can keep my battery for as long as possible and change it just before it fails! Don't wanna get stranded in the morning! BTW, what ride are you having? Yup you are right. It is more impt to check the CRANKING health then Volt reading. I ever encounter few batteries that shown 12V+ but it fail to start a car. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fcw75 Hypersonic April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 If battery is 12V+ but yet can't start the car, that means not the battery problem lor. Might be starter, fuel delivery, crank sensors failure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snookium 1st Gear April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 No. It works after I change a new battery or Jump start. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeobh 4th Gear April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 (edited) Allow me to make point out a small mistake - battery at 12.2volt ( static measurement taken at cold stage) is considered about 25% charge and is considered very bad let alone ay 11.9 volt. Pl refer to attached chart from a reputable battery tester maker OPERATION.doc Edited April 16, 2009 by Yeobh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeobh 4th Gear April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 You can conduct a cranking test just with a simple voltmeter. Connect the volt meter in parellel to the battery terminals, disable the engine ignition coils and get a helper ( if you do not have a remote starter) to crank the engine over. If the voltmeter drops to 9.5 to 10 volt, the battery is in no way healthy and can delivery the necessary few seconds of 400amp torque to turn the engine over. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legan 1st Gear April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 If battery is 12V+ but yet can't start the car, that means not the battery problem lor. Might be starter, fuel delivery, crank sensors failure. I'm sorry but if the voltage shows 12V, it does not mean the battery can deliver enough current to start the engine. The burst of power needed to crank the engine cannot be shown by the voltage reading alone. Which is why car mechanics always recommend changing battery every year. Even with a volt meter, they cannot tell if the battery is going to fail. Of course they are also trying to earn some money. Ha ha Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enduro25 Clutched April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 ya..my batt failed mi even when my volt meter appears to be 14V after start of engine.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickensoup 1st Gear April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 (edited) ya..my batt failed mi even when my volt meter appears to be 14V after start of engine.. When your engine is started, the voltage reading is the alternator output reading. At 14v, it indicates a healthy charging system. Nothing to do with battery state of health. Edited April 16, 2009 by Chickensoup Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarael Clutched April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 do those battery meter that read by inserting into the car lighter plug work ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeobh 4th Gear April 16, 2009 Share April 16, 2009 Did you managed to start the engine? If the reading is 14volt at cold and you are unable to turn the engine over, besides loose connections the battery reading is a false one ( it's is know as surface charge - not a true actual voltage of the whole battery ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelpie 2nd Gear April 17, 2009 Share April 17, 2009 The readings does not tell you the most critical information - cranking health. - 11.9V during the morning when engine is cold (lights & aircon off) Your reading shows battery is holding it's charge - 12.3V when the engine is hot (lights & aircon off) Also shows it is holding it's charge - 13.6V when engine is running (should be the alternator reading) with lights, aircon on Shows Alternator and Charging circuit is working. I got myself a Battery Bug that tells me when my battery's cranking health is kaput. It will also tell me when the battery is not holding it's charge or when charging circuit is faulty. But the feature I like most is the cranking health info. Now I can keep my battery for as long as possible and change it just before it fails! Don't wanna get stranded in the morning! BTW, what ride are you having? Hi, may I know where did you get your Battery Bug? roughly how much? Thank you. Regards, ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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