Jump to content

Slotted rotors and stock rotors


Yewhiong
 Share

Recommended Posts

Changing the whole brake kit does not necessarily improve brake performance if the user have poor braking technique.

 

You can buy 2000 pistons and 1000mm rotors but if you don't know the fundamentals of braking technique, your braking distance will be longer than what a factory can yield.

 

I've already seen factory calipers beat 6 pistons, 8 pistons over and over again at the track simply because those people are stubborn, throw on the biggest that money can buy but don't know how to use them.

Huh..brake also got " Don't know how to use" ? Just step only mah [drivingcar]

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

Huh..brake also got " Don't know how to use" ? Just step only mah [drivingcar]

 

Drag, track, drift just step accelerator only mah...

 

What makes average Joe so different from Taniguchi, Michael Schumacher, Ayrton Sena ? [rolleyes]

Link to post
Share on other sites

Drag, track, drift just step accelerator only mah...

 

What makes average Joe so different from Taniguchi, Michael Schumacher, Ayrton Sena ? [rolleyes]

Thread starter seems to be looking for rotors meant for street city use. No mention of F1 driving. Many things in racing is not good for steet use.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Bros,

 

I am due to change my brake rotors.

 

Based on the same dimension of the brake rotors, which is lighter - slotted or stock (solid) ?

 

Please enlighten me.

 

Regards,

Kent

 

Slotted = To help de-glaze your pads. So you can do hard braking. Glazed pads are when you do hard braking and a layer of glaze forms over your pads (like glass...very smooth)...glazed pads are like braking on glass....as good as no brakes.

 

Slotted rotors will wear your pads faster...but not to the extend that you need to change pads every 6 months. If you use those performance pads (semi metallic) it would at least last 40k km. Noise is acceptable tradeoff IMHO....able to stop better is always worthwhile for me.

 

The other downside is your rims will be super dirty very fast...last time my rims become black after 2 days of driving.

 

Best is to get a bigger brakes from a car up....eg Civic use Integra or 2.0Si brakes....having a larger surface area to grip = better brakes. Larger surface area also equates to better cooling.

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I dunno... but ever since I chnage to slotted & cross drilled front rotors.... I can feel the bumps/slots of the rotors whenever doing hard braking. Is this normal?

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

But normal and light braking I can't feel the bumps/slots..... only when I brake hard, then I can feel it.

 

If warped.... what other symptoms are there?

 

Oh... I also wonder, is there any direction for the slots to face? Mounting on left or right side means reverse directions in which the slots face.

 

Your legs are that sensitive ?? Or you have a slightly warp rotor ?

Edited by Dwoon
Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

Thread starter seems to be looking for rotors meant for street city use. No mention of F1 driving. Many things in racing is not good for steet use.

 

And if you took the time to read my previous post, you will notice I gave him recommendations based on street applications.

 

By going to a big brake kit does not mean braking performance will improve without the driver possessing proper braking technique. In cases such as the latter, brake distance is actually prolonged rather than reduced.

 

Many things in racing is not good for streets but many MCF members are still installing things meant for racing for street use.

 

Perhaps you could be MCF's resident street safety advisor.

 

And if you were wondering the rational of my comment, the reason is because braking is not as easy as you think it is. AKA, "Just step on it".

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

But normal and light braking I can't feel the bumps/slots..... only when I brake hard, then I can feel it.

 

If warped.... what other symptoms are there?

 

Oh... I also wonder, is there any direction for the slots to face? Mounting on left or right side means reverse directions in which the slots face.

 

Uneven pad deposits on rotors.

 

Improper wearing in of new pads or insufficient cooling down after hard braking.

 

You can machine the rotors but its band aid solution and the vibrations will come back in few weeks or days.

 

Try using 300 grit sandpaper and sand down the rotors to remove pad deposits. If that doesn't help, changing to brand new set of rotors.

Link to post
Share on other sites

And if you took the time to read my previous post, you will notice I gave him recommendations based on street applications.

 

By going to a big brake kit does not mean braking performance will improve without the driver possessing proper braking technique. In cases such as the latter, brake distance is actually prolonged rather than reduced.

 

Many things in racing is not good for streets but many MCF members are still installing things meant for racing for street use.

 

Perhaps you could be MCF's resident street safety advisor.

 

And if you were wondering the rational of my comment, the reason is because braking is not as easy as you think it is. AKA, "Just step on it".

[lipsrsealed]

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wouldn't call it vibration....... you can feel the regular intervals of the slots..... but only on hard braking.

 

Uneven pad deposits on rotors.

 

Improper wearing in of new pads or insufficient cooling down after hard braking.

 

You can machine the rotors but its band aid solution and the vibrations will come back in few weeks or days.

 

Try using 300 grit sandpaper and sand down the rotors to remove pad deposits. If that doesn't help, changing to brand new set of rotors.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

I wouldn't call it vibration....... you can feel the regular intervals of the slots..... but only on hard braking.

 

What rotors are you using ?

 

If the pulsing or bumps of the intervals are occuring at slower intervals at lower speeds and higher at higher speeds, it could either be pad deposits or uneven wear. If you can truely feel the slots itself, the pulsing should cancel out at high speeds.

 

I've gone through a few sets of rotors, all of which different brands and grooves and have not heard of such a problem so far.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

[lipsrsealed]

 

Braking is not just about stepping the brakes itself.

 

It is easy to stomp on brakes till the point abs kicks in but that is not the most efficient manner of braking. In most cases, using ABS actually prolongs braking distance.

 

So why use ABS ?

 

Because without ABS, braking distance is even longer.

 

However if you apply treshold braking technique, by applying sufficient pressure to the point just before ABS kicks in, that would be your optimum braking point. It has shown repeatedly to outbrake drivers who use ABS or don't apply enough brake pressure.

 

How you brake, when you brake, how you release pressure, how you trail brake into a corner, it all affects the stability of a car as well as the amount of exit traction you have.

 

That is why I said braking is not as easy as everyone thinks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

And if you took the time to read my previous post, you will notice I gave him recommendations based on street applications.

 

By going to a big brake kit does not mean braking performance will improve without the driver possessing proper braking technique. In cases such as the latter, brake distance is actually prolonged rather than reduced.

 

Many things in racing is not good for streets but many MCF members are still installing things meant for racing for street use.

 

Perhaps you could be MCF's resident street safety advisor.

 

And if you were wondering the rational of my comment, the reason is because braking is not as easy as you think it is. AKA, "Just step on it".

 

 

Good braking is essential but no point doing it. But when I see all sort of entry sedan installing 4 pots or 6 pots aftermarket system, I can't help thinking whether this is really overkill? Many of them hardly go beyond 110km/h, hardly set foot on NSH and not to mention about rack track.

 

Yes, braking does require techniques. In braking, tires take precedence over everything. The very basic thing to do is always to go for the best tires that the driver can afford.

 

Regards,

Link to post
Share on other sites

Braking is not just about stepping the brakes itself.

 

It is easy to stomp on brakes till the point abs kicks in but that is not the most efficient manner of braking. In most cases, using ABS actually prolongs braking distance.

 

So why use ABS ?

 

Because without ABS, braking distance is even longer.

 

However if you apply treshold braking technique, by applying sufficient pressure to the point just before ABS kicks in, that would be your optimum braking point. It has shown repeatedly to outbrake drivers who use ABS or don't apply enough brake pressure.

 

How you brake, when you brake, how you release pressure, how you trail brake into a corner, it all affects the stability of a car as well as the amount of exit traction you have.

 

That is why I said braking is not as easy as everyone thinks.

You are certainly an expert in this area.

However, we don't use this kind of braking especially in local driving. Most accidents you see on CTE, AYE, PIE are bumper damage. These kind of accidents are simply lack of concentration driving bumper to bumper.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

Good braking is essential but no point doing it. But when I see all sort of entry sedan installing 4 pots or 6 pots aftermarket system, I can't help thinking whether this is really overkill? Many of them hardly go beyond 110km/h, hardly set foot on NSH and not to mention about rack track.

 

Yes, braking does require techniques. In braking, tires take precedence over everything. The very basic thing to do is always to go for the best tires that the driver can afford.

 

Regards,

 

Good braking is essential and there is every point in doing it.

 

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=vkFkuBCw9kU

 

In the above link you will find a 4-5 car pile up that I was involved.

 

I was able to stop in time as I use left foot braking all the time when driving an AT car. My bumper and the taxi's bumper was about less than 1cm apart.

 

Needless to say with poor braking technique, one can only speculate the possible outcome.

 

Essential braking techniques is paramount and will save you money and possibly your live.

 

I do agree that that the 4 and 6 pistons calipers are overkill on normal sedans.

 

Quite alot of people don't understand that because you put a 4 piston or 6 pistons calipers, braking performance will improve. Larger and more pistons can increase endurance in track work. Under normal driving conditions, factory brakes with good braking techniques is sufficient.

 

If driver wants to have added peace of mind, they can change pads, rotors, lines, brake fluids. To go to the extend of BBK for street applications, that is overkill.

 

Tyres are also paramount to brake performance but it is incorrect to say tyres take precedence over everything because poor braking techniques and poorly maintained brakes is just as useless. A good combination of overall factors is crucial.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Neutral Newbie

You are certainly an expert in this area.

However, we don't use this kind of braking especially in local driving. Most accidents you see on CTE, AYE, PIE are bumper damage. These kind of accidents are simply lack of concentration driving bumper to bumper.

 

No I am not an expert in this area. In fact there are much more things involved in brakes that most people seldom bother to understand.

 

Perhaps you don't use this kind of braking but others do and for myself it has proven to be of great help.

 

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=vkFkuBCw9kU

 

And no, most accidents don't always occur at CTE, AYE, PIE but TPE as well.

 

The link above as mentioned before was myself involved in a 4-5 car pile up on TPE.

 

I was able to stop in time with left foot braking. The gap between my car and the taxi ahead of me was barely less than 1cm. And no, it was a lack of concentration on my part. Even the taxi driver was puzzled and asked me how I stopped in time.

 

Had I not used left foot braking, I would not have been able to stop in time. One can only imagine the time it takes to move the right foot from accelerator to brake pedal would have cost me more than 1cm of stopping distance.

 

In this case, my braking technique has helped prevent collision with others.

 

Every little bit counts.

 

PS: If your wondering how I got the video, it was one of those video recording devices that my father installed in his car. In my opinion its quite useful but unfortunately it was set to poor quality to increase recording time. I have since set it to higher quality.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Good braking is essential and there is every point in doing it.

 

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=vkFkuBCw9kU

 

In the above link you will find a 4-5 car pile up that I was involved.

 

I was able to stop in time as I use left foot braking all the time when driving an AT car. My bumper and the taxi's bumper was about less than 1cm apart.

 

Needless to say with poor braking technique, one can only speculate the possible outcome.

 

Essential braking techniques is paramount and will save you money and possibly your live.

 

I do agree that that the 4 and 6 pistons calipers are overkill on normal sedans.

 

Quite alot of people don't understand that because you put a 4 piston or 6 pistons calipers, braking performance will improve. Larger and more pistons can increase endurance in track work. Under normal driving conditions, factory brakes with good braking techniques is sufficient.

 

If driver wants to have added peace of mind, they can change pads, rotors, lines, brake fluids. To go to the extend of BBK for street applications, that is overkill.

 

Tyres are also paramount to brake performance but it is incorrect to say tyres take precedence over everything because poor braking techniques and poorly maintained brakes is just as useless. A good combination of overall factors is crucial.

 

Realized that I missed out the word "over". I was trying to to say no point in over doing it. My typo mistake.

 

I've been using stock brake on NSH on the current car. More than adequate. the important thing is still tyres (proper alignment, pressure and running temperature), sufficent brake pads, knowing the techniques on when and how to brake. Most importanly also to stay alert and keep a safe distance.

 

Regards,

 

 

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...