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Soundproofing for doors


Oklor76
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There are many kinds of sound proof to serve various purposes. The bitumen kind that you paste at the doors is meant to reduce vibrations and improve sound quality of your speakers. In order to reduce road noise from the tyres, either use quieter tyres or soundproof your floor pan and wheel arches with another type of soundproof material at comes as a thicker mat, specially meant for floors. In order to block off sound waves, you also need the foam or sponge kind of sound insulation. There are many different kinds of sound proofing materials out there meant for different purposes.

 

The stingray roadkill u mentioned is not meant to reduce wind noise.

 

2 kinds of soundproofing materials are required.

 

1.) Sound deadener

2.) Sound dampener

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got lah... the improvement is depends on car..

 

For me, I FIY the soundproofing myself, part by part... panel by panel. Can hear & feel the diferrent after every sound proofng session.

 

After sound proof the whole car (except for the wall in beween the engine and cabin) it is obvious that all most of the sound comes from the windscreen when I drive fast. the overall improvement to isolate the sound from outside is around 25% to 35%. Not very much i would say.... However, the ICE improve very much, especially the bass. its very solid compare to no sound proofing at all.

I finally experienced it to agree w u that bass has improved compared to localized SP wen fixing spkr... But at a couple of hundred dollars for multiple layer SP. Initially tried 2 front doors, effect was so noticeable that I did rear doors weeks after!

 

B4 sound was like all over the place or dispersed; after some missing bass could b heard n sound more concentrated.

 

Wat a poisonous yet wonderful journey...

Edited by Fuelsaver
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Pros - Better sound insulations.

Cons - higher petrol consumption + not cheap to soundproof whole car

 

If cannot tahan road noise, cheapest way just to on louder music... [laugh] [laugh]

 

 

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I finally experienced it to agree w u that bass has improved compared to localized SP wen fixing spkr... But at a couple of hundred dollars for multiple layer SP. Initially tried 2 front doors, effect was so noticeable that I did rear doors weeks after!

 

B4 sound was like all over the place or dispersed; after some missing bass could b heard n sound more concentrated.

 

Wat a poisonous yet wonderful journey...

finally after almost a year, installed mosconi gladen one 120.4 amp few days ago - one of my colleagues who sat in my ride mentioned sound system was "very good"... he's taken my ride occasionally, only this time he commented very good (i didnt tell him at all of my ICE mods)...

 

so being an amateur, i can only conclude a various of stuffs to be done to get very decent sound -

 

1. reasonably ok HU (mine's pioneer deh-6350sd);

2. reasonably ok spkr (mine's helix comp b 62 c & helix e106 co-ax);

3. at least 2 layer sp (mine's stp 4-layer for 4 doors);

4. reasonably ok amp (mine's mosconi gladen one 120.4);

5. reasonably ok sub (can be active if u no need too much boom boom) (mine's kenwood ksc-sw01 active sub).

 

compared to 3-way active, i think now can stop n rest for a long while, since cost doesn't justify for dat lil xtra good sound, wc i can't seemed to hear difference...

Edited by Fuelsaver
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i think i can tell the diff betw no amp & amp-ed sound -

 

- background / softer recorded sounds appear more audible;

- sound is more clear (esp vocals) concentrated & 3-D; u can hear clearer without turning too high a volume.

- doesn't sound as "noisy".

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Jus made a "big" discovery. For all we know, conventional soundproofing of inner panels might not match the circumferential taping of speaker rim using sponge-like dampening material. Jus did it n the bass was awesome without using loudness n eq!

 

I dunno y none of the ice shops I visited suggested doin that... Perhaps SP earns them more bucks???

 

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Jus made a "big" discovery. For all we know, conventional soundproofing of inner panels might not match the circumferential taping of speaker rim using sponge-like dampening material. Jus did it n the bass was awesome without using loudness n eq!

 

I dunno y none of the ice shops I visited suggested doin that... Perhaps SP earns them more bucks???

 

of course lah....

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Any photos to show?

here goes; example showed yellow foam ring to seal against plastic door inside panel & also prevent sound from leaking to inside the panel & door inner panel cavities while directing / channeling to car cabin.

 

post-57422-1344959239_thumb.jpg

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btw, black foam rings avail from autobacs at $14/pair.

 

also, did anyone try the above before gg for SP door panels? pls share ur experience.

 

hope this thread would bring about some new experiences; i seriously have not hear anyone mentioned about this little yet crucial detail. ice shops usually make speakers protrude out till door plastic panel, which is a lot of work (and money of cos).

 

jus find that we r so misled by the local ice industry...

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of course lah....

bro, i'm pretty confused if u r knowledgeable or just enjoy being spectator to watch how mcf-ers trip n fall.

 

why don't u stand out to share your knowledge instead of being somewhat loathsome, i'm sure some ppl like me would appreciate your kind gesture.

 

having above and many other comments in various threads certainly does nothing except to possibly incur wrath.

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Nice bro.

 

I also noticed there is this sponge trimming on the stock speaker. When i replaced it with component speaker and asked the installer about filling this gap between the mid bass and plastic door panel, they just said no effect on the SQ but i dont quite agree with them. Since u brought out this issue, i will definitely try it out once i have the time.

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