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Harmony Motor Tuning ECU


Pandaeyes
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For pre-2006 models, Hondata is already doing it well.

 

We have just cracked post 2006 models, both Masushita and Keihin ECU. The problem is that the ECU Cover is glued dead to the sockets. If we force it open to do BDM tuning, the socket or the cover will crack. It has to be done really slowly and it take 1 man/day to open 1 ECU. No very productive.

 

I think we will be launching this late 2008 or early 2009. I hope it will be a big bang for all tune enthusiats.

 

Cheers and safe driving.

 

Joey Lim

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ok. so the conclusion is tuning a stock ECU will give better "return" than tuning a modded engine as modded engine has already reached its 'peak' with little to no room to expand except to lup TURBO ! [laugh]

 

Hi, may I correct some common misconception about stock engine not 'good' for tuning.

 

From my experience, stock engine tends to gain the most in %. This is because it started at a low base and the eventual result is usually not far from those modded engines.

 

As for modded engine, even after a satisfactory tune, the eventual result is still not tremendously high as it is still an NA engine.

 

So my conclusion is that stock engine tends to get the most power/$ from tuning.

 

Thanks and safe driving.

 

Joey Lim

Edited by Wt_know
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There are 2 ways of getting power for your stock engine. 1 - Hardware Mod, 2 - Software Mod.

 

For Hardware Mods, it is more difficult to finely adjust the power output, like pipe sizing and bend angles are quite 'fixed'. Eg. If you want to get some tubings, the market will sell you 2" or 2.5", but your best size may be 2.3453" (haha). Also, you don't have the luxury of making 5 - 10 sets of tubings for test purpose. So most of the time, Tune shop will use their experience to size up a good design for you. There is no way of double checking is this the best design.

 

The good thing about Hardware mod is that it is able to bring the final capability of the engine higher. For this, software mod cannot give you 101 HP if the engine final capability is 100 HP.

 

Another thing about Hardware mod is that it is rigid. It will only take care of 1 end of the performance and will usually cause problem for the other end. Eg, bigger piping will give you good high end but you low end will definitely suffer.

 

My conclusion will be, use proven Hardware Mods design and not try to creat something out of nothing. The Hardware Tuner/designer must know the principle of power making and air dynamics. After doing up the hardware, you must compliment with software tuning to being out the full the protential of the hardware.

 

But if you are only a casual driver, I would suggest do the software will do, it gives you the most bang for buck power.

 

Thanks and safe driving.

 

Joey Lim

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no prob, we are all here to learn nod.gifnod.gifnod.gif, I'm reading up a bit on this ECU tuning part so that I can tune my own Piggy Bag ECU when I install it, most likely next year thumbsup.gifthumbsup.gifthumbsup.gif

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Hi,

 

"Centrifugal blowers from TRD have more boost potential + builds power progressively + runs cooler. In terms of costing, runs cheaper overall $9000+ for 85-210hp increase ($42-105 per hp). The torque delivery is at all range of the rpm, especially in gear 2 & 3.... Super strong and fast Speed limit and cut reached at Gear 3 with Gear 4 to spare . For factory reliability + local driving conditions, I'll take centrifugal anytime."

 

Thanks for yr reply: I'm currently lookin' for a good turbo and Centrifugal blowers from TRD (by you) its hard to find and damn ex. How' bout the HKS Centrifugal blowers? Are they equally good. I was also told that 'sequential' blowers are very good in city boost that reduces lag dearly.

 

Cheers

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Neutral Newbie

Hi bros,

 

Sorry i hope my post is not too off topic, please feel free to delete if it is.

 

I was planning to send my ride for tuning, its a 1.5L Auto EX.

 

But i want to tune it for more drivability.

Leaning towards low-mid range instead of just high end power.

 

Have not decided between Unichip or QF at Harmony.

 

So far have installed a 4-2-1 header, Fujitsubo exhaust and a hurricane drop in.

 

Before i proceed for tuning, i wanna seek some advice from the pros here.

 

If i am looking at tuning for day to day driving and better low-mid response, should i tune it with my drop in or change to an open pod???

 

Alot of pple tell me that on a small cap engine and auto box, doing an open pod w/o tuning my be bad for my low end.

What about with tuning? Will the end result of my low end be better with an open pod or drop in?

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Hi bros,

 

Sorry i hope my post is not too off topic, please feel free to delete if it is.

 

I was planning to send my ride for tuning, its a 1.5L Auto EX.

 

But i want to tune it for more drivability.

Leaning towards low-mid range instead of just high end power.

 

Have not decided between Unichip or QF at Harmony.

 

So far have installed a 4-2-1 header, Fujitsubo exhaust and a hurricane drop in.

 

Before i proceed for tuning, i wanna seek some advice from the pros here.

 

If i am looking at tuning for day to day driving and better low-mid response, should i tune it with my drop in or change to an open pod???

 

Alot of pple tell me that on a small cap engine and auto box, doing an open pod w/o tuning my be bad for my low end.

What about with tuning? Will the end result of my low end be better with an open pod or drop in?

 

Better low end response, best to retain stock airbox and paper filter. Even Hurricane drop in may lose to paper filter in bumper to bumper and heavy traffic situation. With the extra air flow from Hurricane, your engine is tuned to stock setup and may not know what to do with the extra air, hence resulting in losing some low end which you may be sensitive to find out or may not be aware of.

 

Open pod for auto ride must accompanied by proper heat shield and CAI. Then followed by tuning.

 

Correct me if I am wrong.

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