Silver_z 1st Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 I think to a better drift? But it only works on slippery road condition. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamjammer Neutral Newbie May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 Heard before that if your car are going to "spin", do this 2 things: 1. let go of acceleration 2. engage to lowest gear ASAP - use engine brake (but for auto car difficult as you need to step on foot brake to change to D1 or D2). Was told not to engage foot brake, it'll worsen the spinning. Not sure if this is true wor?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enzomatrix 2nd Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 if u brake, from spin become drift Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zcold 2nd Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 (edited) bro... maybe to better help understand hydroplaning.... actually.. there are 3 types of hydro planing... dynamic hydroplaning, viscous hydroplaning & reverted rubber hydroplaning (for aircraft landings so not in discussion) dynamic hydroplaning occurs when the downward pressure (inflation pessure) of the tyre is insufficient to displace the water from the imprint area in the short time of contact. prevention: 1. lower speed(duh) 2. tyres with deep tread depth viscous hydroplanning occurs on a smooth pavement surface (e.g. multistorey CP wet surface). loss of friction can occur at relative low speed when viscosity alone is adequate to prevent water from escaping from under the tyre er... sry with the boring definations but the key is tread depth... not too sure abt the bigger tyre = easier to hydroplane part as bro silverZ mentioned... (or otherwise as u mentioned) edit: after reading my sources again... i see a diagram showing tyre imprint area gettin smaller as speed increases = hydroplane.... so maybe bigger tyres = bigger area of contact... maybe = lesser hydroplane? thou the key is still tread depth... Edited May 30, 2008 by Zcold Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowmo Clutched May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 dynamic hydroplaning occurs when the downward pressure (inflation pessure) of the tyre is insufficient to displace the water from the imprint area in the short time of contact. prevention: 1. lower speed(duh) 2. tyres with deep tread depth Does it mean that wider tires means water have to travel longer in the threads before it gets pushed out? This would make sense if you see wider tires have wide threads while the smaller tires tend to have smaller treads. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nighthawkcity 1st Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 Quote Does anyone knows what is the best way to gain control back in such situation when the car start spinning under wet road condition? For me, I practice the technique from car simulation game. Usually the steps are, ease the brake and gas, and turn the wheel in the opposite direction. correct lar! I also got my knowledge in simulation games.. hence once when i skidded, can countersteer instinctively. PS3 games also not bad.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zcold 2nd Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 from my understanding bro.. sounds logical i guess... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver_z 1st Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 As you said, the key is thread depth. So if you have a very wide tyre, and thread depth very deep... Then chances of hydroplaning occuring at lower speed is lesser. Then again, wide tyres with deep thread can only be found on tractors and off-roads. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver_z 1st Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 GT5 with Logitech G25... Can learn Heel Toe even. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zcold 2nd Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 er... so is wider tyres better or worse against hydroplaning? my answer: i not sure btw i tink the wide tyres/treads thinggy we are talkin abt here is at the scale of normal cars.. nt tractors/off roaders.... i'm sure tyre manufacturer would increase the proportion of tread depth to tyre width accordingly for street tyres... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver_z 1st Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 To avoid hydroplaning, a tire has to push water out of the way without lifting off of the road surface. A narrow tire has less planing surface and a higher loading, so it is less likely to lift. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zcold 2nd Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 sounds logical, but narrow tyre while having a smaller planning surface have a smaller contact area as well... so lets say 2 cars same weight, speed, road conditions etc, except one narrow and the other wide typres, with the same ratio of tread depth with tyre width... in this case, 1.since contact area with the road is the key, which tyre has a bigger contact area? 2.hence is it correct to conclude that wide is better despite having a larger planning surface but still having a bigger contact area with the road than narrow? sorry bro but its quite hard for me to imagine racing cars using narrow wet tyres Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nazaki Clutched May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 i don't think auto or manual makes a difference if u aquaplanned... how do u control something that's floating on water? the only wan u can control it is by sticking a stick down to the ground, which is 99.99% unlikely if such situtation arise. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nazaki Clutched May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 (edited) is hydroplane = aquaplan? I've aquaplanned 3 times since i started driving (twice car went to the workshop). I don't think there's any way of controlling the car if in an event of aquaplan. You can't steer the car, it doesn't move to the direction you want. You can't jam the brakes, it doesn't work that way too, the car will still move forward. Your brain wun allow you to step on the gas, unless you are willing to take the gamble of saving your life, or double-ing the damage or even death. Tapping on the brake, I've not tried that yet, but seems like everyone says that it will work? I'm sure with today's technology of cars, ABS is there for such purpose right? I'm sure everyone have their theory on how to counter the effects etc, but I bet only 10% actually will be able to manage it when such situtation arise. I used to laugh at my friend who crashed his evo due to aquaplanning, but when it happens, it happens. :) The best way is to, PRAY TO GOD while ur car aquaplan, that's the best way to ensure the safety of your life. :) Edited May 30, 2008 by Nazaki Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jl1500k Clutched May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 But such course only conducted in MY. Not sure about in SG. http://www.aadasb.com/index.php?option=com...w&id=17&Itemid= Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mm63 1st Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 Prevention is better than cure. 1. Don't try to save and buy cheap tyres. 2. Always check that your tyre pressure is correct. If you want to go one step further, 1. Lower suspension 2. Adjust camber Simplest solution.....DON'T SPEED! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrxwrx Neutral Newbie May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 Go for safra advanced driving course. Great fun! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guyver 1st Gear May 30, 2008 Share May 30, 2008 Quote i used to drive a manual transmission rear wheel drive car in the US. the place i was in gets very heavy snowfalls and icy roads every winter so i got plenty of practice with the fishtails and wheelspins and stuff. Imagine "drifting" your car at 20mph on ice, sounds stupid right. When your car starts to "drift", do not hit the brakes, instead take the torque off the wheels by disengaging gear (or put transmission to neutral), and point your steering wheel towards the direction your rear is swinging into. this only works for wet or slippery roads. for dry roads, if you're cornering and your rear is sliding out, put the pedal to the metal and accelerate out of the bend and you should be fine. In Singapore I find that many drivers cannot control their car when they go round a bend, always under or oversteering out of their lane. I soon realised why: I dunno where they learnt this from but the drivers here tend to brake thru a bend, and they tend to lose control of the car more easily when they do that. Do this: brake into a corner, when you reach the apex of the corner, downshift and accelerate out of it. You'll have a smoother and more controlled ride when you do that. Wah ... now I know liao. Been driving a manual car for the last 2 weeks ... quite fun .... can take alot of bents without even braking ... ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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