Engine oil

[Josephteo]

since yours is the Turbo car...i think it's better you use higher weight oils... I think 50 should be alright ba... just gotta decide which brand... W30 maybe too thin?

[Trex101]

Friend, just follow the owner manual. There's a reason why the manufacturer engineer decided to spec 10w30 instead of w50 if that's what it's call for.

[Adawang]

I want to add moly, u got?

pls state price, brand, volume

[Tigerson]

What the price for Mobil 1.

[Calvin1]

sorry to side track a bit. anyone knows what will happen if too much engine oil in the engine?

[Tigerson]

Just talk to the guy who sell Mobil 1 in Yahoo. can have a good price if buy 5 bottles or more. Maybe at $75 per bottles.

[Tigerson]

Engine overwork and use more petro.

[Adawang]

I may try the following

 

Redline

Pennzoil

Amsoil

 

for next service

[Genie47]

As long as you are not constantly in race conditions (high RPM, high fueling), can use 30wt even for turbocharged car. If you decide one day to track. Drain oil and put in 50wt. just for that session.

Edited April 5, 2008 by Genie47

[Garlic]

Source: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

So you topped up the engine when it was warm after getting a faulty dipstick reading, or you put too much oil in when you changed it yourself. What's the worst that could happen? Well the problem with this is that the next time the engine is run, the windage in the crankcase and other pressures generated by the oil pump, etc. place a great strain on the seal on the rear main bearing.

 

Eventually, often much sooner than the ordinary man in the street might expect, the rear main bearing seal ruptures, and the engine becomes a 'leaker'. If you've got a manual gearbox, this means one thing: this oil goes right onto the flywheel and the face of the clutch disc.

 

A lubricated clutch is A Bad Thing. If this still goes unnoticed, the front seal is the next to go, and the engine then becomes a 'gusher' (or to be more colourful, it starts pissing oil all over the place). As well as smothering the clutch with oil from the rear, the oil now coming from the front leak will be neatly distributed about the engine bay as it hits the front pulley - often propelling it out as far as the brake discs. At the same time as this Hollywood disaster movie is unfolding outside the engine, things aren't working out any better on the inside. As you can see from the diagram, the correct oil level is really close to the rotating crank. Overfilling will mean the crank dips into the oil and churns it into a froth.

 

Froth is good on certain types of coffee but not good in an engine. The mixture of aerated oil will be forced into the bearings and in case you didn't know, air is not a lubricant. Typically this means that bearing damage will follow quite rapidly, especially if you are driving on a motorway. You'll know bearing damage when you get it. The engine smells like a garage mechanic cooking over an open flame and the noise coming from the engine is the sort of thing you'd normally hear in vaudeville plays when a piano is pushed down a flight of stairs. As if that all wasn't bad enough, the excess oil gets thrown up into the piston bores where the piston rings have a hard time coping with the excess oil and pressure.

 

It gets into the combustion chamber and some of it will get out into the exhaust system unburned resulting in a nice patina of oil all over the platinum surfaces of your catalytic converter. This renders it utterly useless for good.

Well, you did ask.

[Garlic]

Follow the owner's manual.

 

There are UOAs from WRXs on 30wt oil in BITOG and results are excellent, a think oil in normal driving conditions does more harm than good.

 

A 50wt is highly recommended for track sessions though.

[Garlic]

Redline is track proven, go ahead if you want to best for your engine.

 

UOAs from Amsoil's 100% series are as well.

[Tohto]

I want to add moly, u got?

pls state price, brand, volume

 

Why you want to add moly?

Just get a Redline oil which is ester base. It is not that Ex if you know the right source to get it.

[Tohto]

Just talk to the guy who sell Mobil 1 in Yahoo. can have a good price if buy 5 bottles or more. Maybe at $75 per bottles.

 

This is too ex. One of this forum member is selling at a much better price..

[Garlic]

UOA taken from http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...1099255&fpart=1

 

 

Vehicle: 2005 Subaru Impreza WRX STi

Engine: 2.5L Turbo

Engine Mods: COBB Stage 1 (ECU reflash providing an additional 25 HP)

Fuel Type: Gasoline (Unleaded); 92 Octane

Air Filter: OEM Paper

Oil Filter: OEM (Part #15208AA080)

Oil Capacity: 4.8 Quarts

Make-Up Oil Used: None

Additives Used: One treatment of Techron fuel system cleaner approx. 200 miles prior to oil change.

Oil in Use: 08/03/07 - 02/24/08 (206 Days)

Driving Conditions: I would consider myself a semi-aggressive driver in general. Vehicle is used for commuting 17 miles to/from work, 90% highway driving at speeds between 60 and 80 MPH. Also driven on weekends around town. No racing or other track driving.

 

 

Edited April 6, 2008 by Garlic

[Garlic]

Redline is already loaded with tons of Moly.

[Garlic]

Yep.

 

Much much much cheaper.

[Garlic]

Another UOA from a 2.3L turbocharged Mazda CX-7 on 30wt oil.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbth...1081550&fpart=1