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How do you know whether your car engine has "break-in" successfully?


Kelpie
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I'm just curious for those who swear by the break-in procedures, how do you know whether your new car has break-in successfully?

 

Regards,

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most manufacturers recommend that you do not "strain" the engine during the first 1000km (depending on manufacturer recommendations).

 

this is deemed the most crucial part of the engine's life because the engine internals are still very tight and are taking shape from the internal friction. the break-in period is meant to minimize long-term damage.

 

it is recommended that you do not rev past 3000rpm during this time. after this period, you'll need to change oil and replace oil filter.

 

it is true that many new cars are abused during the delivery stage. i've seen cars coming out of the West Coast ports and the drivers revving the crap out of the engines. [crazy] so it's always best to get new deliveries with as little mileage as possible.

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Besides not exceeding 3k rpm for the 1st 1000km, should there be any limit on the travelling speed during this run-in period?

 

Btw is there any tendency for the FC to be higher than normal during this period?

 

My dad just got a new car, similar model to the previous one, and he noticed that the FC is higher. Now at 300+km. Although ya it's a totally new generation model, but it's a concern that even when we're now driving conservatively to run in, the FC is already higher than our regular driving style on the previous ride.

Edited by Theatreofdreams
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Neutral Newbie

wow, brudders, i like yr disclaimer part, dick u kenna ham-tum ball-la b4???

I'm just curious for those who swear by the break-in procedures, how do you know whether your new car has break-in successfully?

 

Regards,

 

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Actually, on the topic of running-in, there were 2 school of thoughts. One school hung on to the conventional breaking-in method as discussed in this thread and the other believed that you shld ram your vehicle as hard as you could to make sure the piston (after the resulting wear and tear)sits well into the piston well.

 

The latter theory (hard breakin-in) could easily be found in the web together with their supporting facts, one being that the engine of today is built with materials more hardy than those in the past with advance technology so the ramming will not damage the engine. The key is not to maintain a constant speed at all time, i.e., ram the vehicle randomly to above 5000 rpm and allow the vehicle to come to a slow by itself and then repeat the process whenever the road condition allows.

 

Although I find the reasonings given by the latter rather tenable, I stuck to the conventional method when running-in my ride [flowerface]

 

As regard your question, I just assumed that my car was run-in after the first 1K under the conventional method as I didn't find any lose in power and the FC actually improved a little [flowerface]

Edited by Chickenfarm
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the break in period is also for the other parts of the cars, shafts, brakes systems, transmissions..etc thats why certain driving behaviours like 'sudden brakes' are discouraged for the first 1k km.

 

FC is always higher during break in period because of many factors, one is that you've not got used to driving the car optimally yet.

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Nobody actually tried to answer your question on HOW we know our new car has break-in successfully. [:p]

 

Actually... I doubt there is a way. It's all in the mind perhaps.

 

We don't even know what is the definition of a "break-in" ride.

 

 

You've just changed your ES ah?

 

I'm just curious for those who swear by the break-in procedures, how do you know whether your new car has break-in successfully?

 

Regards,

Edited by Nutty
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Nobody actually tried to answer your question on HOW we know our new car has break-in successfully.

 

Actually... I doubt there is a way. It's all in the mind perhaps.

 

We don't even know what is the definition of a "break-in" ride.

 

You've just changed your ES ah?

 

1. I've attempted to summarize a finding from the webby which I've posted in other forums as well but again not everyone would believe in it:

 

For a proper examination of break-in result, professional will use dynamometer to measure engine power output, check no abnormal wear and tear by ensuring that the filters don't have undesirable metal deposits. Subsquently, they test the ignition by cycling engine through different speed and output. They will also examine the valves, camshaft and the insides of the cylinders. They also have a way to measure how well the pistons and seals hold the pressue, lines and hoses are also checked to ensure good conditions.

 

2. This involves hours of tedious procedure and I doubt Singaporean want to spend money to check their break-in result. This should be the proper way to determine a successful break-in.

 

3. Sigh, talking about it, kena suan by people in other forum that I go around telling people about my newbie. I'm just trying to research on various components and mods prior to its arrival so have to ask around. I don't understand what is the big deal of getting a new one.

 

Regards,

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another way is UOA, the wear is higher during break in, and it takes quite awhile for the elevated wear to go down.

 

Yap, this is one of the break-in examination that I mentioned earlier. Again, not very conclusive too.

 

Regards,

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hehe, y bother break-in or not. just drive happily, and change the car after 5yrs, if not, 10yrs later still have to change

 

You would be surprised that some might heavily protest or defend the need for a break-in. Yes, lets say we agree to break-in, how does one ensure that break-in is successful? the usual answer is better to be safe than to be sorry, win liao lor.

 

Regards,

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