Monthly Damages of Owning a Triple S (Suzuki Swift Sport)

[Dexlee]

Does the SSS comes with rear drum brake? Saw some with 4 disc brake and some with rear drum brake.. how many version they have?

[Relagsingh]

those 3.5 to 4% ones i think are tied to rebates and there are extra clauses to it other than the rule 78.

 

some dealers do offer low interests rates for long tenures.

 

please dun vomit blood....but...wat rebates? wat extra clauses? and wat Rule 78?

 

seems like something I have to watch out while reading the fine print...have to do more homework before all this car-buying stuff

 

hah. relag bro. from what i've experienced, those offer cash rebates are tagged with high interest rates eg. 3.5 or 4%. there are quite a few ways the finance company give the rebates.

 

one example can be 30% of the total interest earned, and the clause may require you to repay the loan for at least 3 yrs in order to enjoy the rebate. Finance companies or banks that co-operate with dealers always come up with lots of different options.

 

rule 78 is the 'universal' rule for hire purchase whereby there's a 20% penalty of the remaining payable by you if you do a full settlement anytime within the loan tenure.

[Bonjoey]

okies....regarding this NCD issue...its with regards to insurance coverage or premium?

 

and build up meaning?

 

paisay..i have been driving my family car for the past 10 years but not really bother abt the technicalities...

[Bonjoey]

icic....repay early also got penalty...cos they cant earn interest i assume...haha...okok...thanks...

[macrosszero]

Real SSS have 4 disc brake and 5 bolt wheel studs. The drum brake ones are fake SSS.

[Vesfreq]

lol. My first ride wasn't a head turner. It was just a lancer glx 06. Insurance was cheap and running cost was low. Best part was the fc, cos' i run around quite often.

 

ECU is engine computer unit. Many jap performance rides have aftermarket ecu upgrades. After installing the ecu and tuning, there is better engine performance. With the ecu upgrade, there are plenty more engine parameters (eg, fuel air mixture) that u can adjust.

 

TC is turbo charger. I am a newbie too. Right after I bought my ride, I found a lot of mods which were done. One of them was... the CAI, shown in my avatar.

 

PS: out of topic:

CAI is cold air intake. Its one long metallic tube that goes close to the ground, within the engine compartment. It sucks in cold air, as the name implies. Cold air being denser results in better combustion of fuel within the engine. Low and mid end gets improved, varies from car to car also.

 

SRI is short ram intake. "It replaces the OEM air intake with a short metal pipe and air filter inside the engine bay. This can slightly boost performance levels in a vehicle by increasing air volume intake, at the expense of increased intake noise. The high temperature of air near the engine can reduce performance in some cases, but this is often made up for by the increased volume of air." Extracted from wikipedia.org.

[Landex]

Look for Liping24.

 

 

u mean LickPeng?

[Ronnchee]

IMO, everyone wont want to pay more interest,if they can afford more down payment, and short term period.

 

However, due to their finance constraints, not everyone can afford that luxury.

 

To me, there is no problem taking a 10 years loan, with min down payment. However, when the owner has some other committment, he/she has lesser $$$ to play around.

 

 

Again, if $$$ can be invested in some other financial products with higher return, say 20% per annual, then use the $$$ and invest in it and go for ZERO downpayment, since the effective interest for car is abt 18%

 

There are a few risks involved if you are taking a full 10yrs loan with minimum DP, if you can live with the risks then go ahead.

 

1) pray hard that you don't get involved in a serious accident, not saying that you are 'boh-boh' driver but other drivers bang into you

 

2) just hope that your ride don't have major problem in the 3rd year onwards or you intend to change car after the 3rd year cause you'll need to top-up.

 

3) car is stolen (highly unlikely if it's not a popular make that they target)

 

Senario 1, even in major accident and the car is totalled, the insurance only pay up to market value, which is normally less than the bank value. The owner still need to cough the difference

[Bonjoey]

this is getting real interesting...thanks man....will be reading up on these more...

[Elviskua]

budget first befor you commit. Try getting a more economy car first and when ur pocket is deeper then get your dream car. However I notice that usually when pocket is deeper when u work hard to accumulate it you won't get a very expensive car. Thats what i feel.

Edited August 14, 2007 by Elviskua

[Vollov]

Only u r most sure of your own financial status. Maybe u have a job with good potential for fast promotion, large annual increments or fat bonuses, so just because today u barely can afford a car (I only guessing+assuming hor, no offense) does not mean u will still be in this situation 2 years later. So u can always buy the car now and as your salary goes up through the years u find it easier to maintain your car...or u can play safe and save more $ and salary go up 1st then buy car.

 

I don't think you should be advising TS to buy a car based upon future earnings. It's dangerous. If at current levels he is unable to get a car and have to resort to 10 year loan to get a car, he should simply not get one.

[Vollov]

hi bro...yeah...doncha worry...i was in ur position once....dreaming of owning my own car but financially unable....

but your time will come whereby u will be like me now - financially able but because it involves a huge some of money plus a financial commitment for some years ahead, its better to be prudent and do the sums carefully.

 

Have not tot of lancer actually, my impresion is that its not very nice to drive cos maybe its not that responsive. [dun flame me if i got it wrong ]

 

was actually considering along the lines of Integra, CTR, Civic 1.8....and also a totally different category of car => Rav4 3dr (which only available second hand)

 

but because I dun wanna stretch myself too thin and get a car and in the end stay at home eat maggi mee...I decided to go for the Swift...and from the Swift, decided wat the heck, just go for the Swift Sport..haha

 

However I must add...after hanging in this forum for quite some time and seeing some really nicely done mod cars...my puny interest for mod cars is growing...especially when I saw a thread last night of a beautifully modded Altis with a Superman Emblem...

 

yeah...I will be getting my hands on those car mags and learning abt all those acroymns and brandnames for mods and ICE

 

thanks for the advice dude

 

If you are not fixated on the Honda badge, the SS is a very good buy. Just keep your mind open and remember a car is not always about 0-100 in how many secs but how well the car drives as a whole. There is simply no comparison to the SS at that price range for a better handling car with good power on tap, barring going into the 2nd hand market. Especially if you do not wish to go into serious mods on the 3rd party workshop circuit.

[Chongyong]

just do it...

[Vtim]

 

IMO, everyone wont want to pay more interest,if they can afford more down payment, and short term period.

 

However, due to their finance constraints, not everyone can afford that luxury.

 

To me, there is no problem taking a 10 years loan, with min down payment. However, when the owner has some other committment, he/she has lesser $$$ to play around.

 

 

Again, if $$$ can be invested in some other financial products with higher return, say 20% per annual, then use the $$$ and invest in it and go for ZERO downpayment, since the effective interest for car is abt 18%

 

There are a few risks involved if you are taking a full 10yrs loan with minimum DP, if you can live with the risks then go ahead.

 

1) pray hard that you don't get involved in a serious accident, not saying that you are 'boh-boh' driver but other drivers bang into you

 

2) just hope that your ride don't have major problem in the 3rd year onwards or you intend to change car after the 3rd year cause you'll need to top-up.

 

3) car is stolen (highly unlikely if it's not a popular make that they target)

 

Senario 1, even in major accident and the car is totalled, the insurance only pay up to market value, which is normally less than the bank value. The owner still need to cough the difference

 

A few years back, I was involved in an accident and my ride was 2yrs +.

 

Insurance suggested to write off the car as the repair cost was more than 30% of the their market valuation. I was going to be without a car but still have to pay money to the Finance Firm.

 

Luckily I know the owner of a workshop and he manage to settle for me and negotiate with the surveyor and my ride was repair, not all parts were new and both airbag weren't replaced, drove for another 1 yr + before I change to my current 8 seater

[Ronnchee]

So lucky of you.

 

I know out in the market, there is this insurance that cover such risk, for the difference between market value and bank value of the car. Think is a few more ten of dollars, on top of the normal premium.

 

The moral of the story is when you have accident, just a minor ones (touch wood, water, earth, gold, fire)

[Guyver]

So lucky of you.

 

I know out in the market, there is this insurance that cover such risk, for the difference between market value and bank value of the car. Think is a few more ten of dollars, on top of the normal premium.

 

The moral of the story is when you have accident, just a minor ones (touch wood, water, earth, gold, fire)

 

For what you had mentioned above ...

 

Please read the fine print ......

 

They'll only cover the "difference between market value and your outstanding loan" only when the following 2 conditions are met ...

 

1. Car must be total lost due to accident (physical crash or impact)

 

2. The insured (owner) must die in the accident which resulted in the total lost of the car.

 

So the chances of claiming is very slim ... on top of that ... any personal accident policy out there would have a better cover over this ....

[Yeshe]

okies....regarding this NCD issue...its with regards to insurance coverage or premium?

 

and build up meaning?

 

paisay..i have been driving my family car for the past 10 years but not really bother abt the technicalities...

 

NCD is the non claim discount for your motor insurance. if you are 1st time owner of the car, you will start with 0% NCD, so your insurance will be high, example S$1600 per yr for 1.6L car. after each year, if you dont make any claims, you get 10% discount, up to 50% discount after 5 yrs.

 

if you happen to get a COE car, you can buy 3rd party fire n theft insurance and that will be much cheaper at about $600+ even with 0% NCD. i think for this details in motor insurance, you can ask guyver.

[Sgnick]

Only u r most sure of your own financial status. Maybe u have a job with good potential for fast promotion, large annual increments or fat bonuses, so just because today u barely can afford a car (I only guessing+assuming hor, no offense) does not mean u will still be in this situation 2 years later. So u can always buy the car now and as your salary goes up through the years u find it easier to maintain your car...or u can play safe and save more $ and salary go up 1st then buy car.

 

I don't think you should be advising TS to buy a car based upon future earnings. It's dangerous. If at current levels he is unable to get a car and have to resort to 10 year loan to get a car, he should simply not get one.

 

Like I say, only he can know his own financial status. What if he is a scholar with a govt agency that just started work after his PHD in MIT? He will not have much savings as he just start work so he go for 10 years loan, but he also have a good career potential.