Brock 1st Gear May 6, 2007 Share May 6, 2007 (edited) During wide open throttle (WOT) or heavy revving, the reading should be RICH (or yellow LED reading). During deceleration, the reading is either not visible or at the LEAN (or red LED reading). So, if it's normal cruising, the reading should be moving from RICH-STOICH-LEAN-STOICH-RICH repeatedly right? Edited May 6, 2007 by Brock ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock 1st Gear May 6, 2007 Author Share May 6, 2007 I just added a Pivot VS Spark Type S a week back and only now I notice that I'm only getting LEAN-STOICH readings at cruising or slight acceleration stages. Previously, it would swing from LEAN-STOICH-RICH and back repeatedly. Is it a case of the ECU getting used to the new device? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yuhsuan Neutral Newbie May 6, 2007 Share May 6, 2007 Does your a/f gauge uses a wideband lambda sensor? If you are just tapping the signal from your stock oxygen sensor, and if your car is NA without any ECU mod or high cams, I wouldn't worry about all this. An accurate a/f gauge would use a wideband oxygen sensor which is more accurate than most of our stock narrowband sensors. Brands such as Greddy/Trust, AEM, PLX, Zeitronix or Innovate makes good accurate a/f gauges. The other pariah brands I wouldn't bother getting worked up with the readings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock 1st Gear May 6, 2007 Author Share May 6, 2007 Alright. Thanks for the info. I did some readings regarding wideband and narrowband lambda sensors. Informative. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitzed Neutral Newbie May 11, 2007 Share May 11, 2007 I am thinking of installing wideband O2 sensor. Heard that the service life of such wideband sensors are very short, max 1.5 years. Is it true? Do you know anyone who have installed the wideband A/F ratio gauge permanently in their cars and not just temporarily using exhaust bung for tuning only? Any feedback on the operating life of such sensors in actual street use? Thanks in advance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yuhsuan Neutral Newbie May 11, 2007 Share May 11, 2007 yes, the borsch sensor has a limited lifespan, after which it needs to be changed. This is widely acknowledged, even by the manufacturers themselves. Fortunately, the sensor itself is about $80 (unlike the whole wideband kit which can be $400+), so I guess it can be considered an expendable item. I don't know anyone personally that has a wideband, most of the hardcore car owners I know opt for a EGT (exhaust temp) instead. I have seen my mechanic install a couple of AEM UEGOs before. Don't mind me asking, why do you think that you need a wideband? Is your ride heavily modified? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock 1st Gear May 11, 2007 Author Share May 11, 2007 Sorry to ask again. So for narrowbands, what is the general normal readings one should get then for A/F? I've been getting mostly lean readings so I'm a bit worried. Warning LED is lighted most of the time for the steppermotor gauge.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucien Neutral Newbie May 11, 2007 Share May 11, 2007 (edited) Readings alternate jumping up and down due to sensor reading at intervals of about 1 cycle per second or faster A narrowband is design to read from 14-16. Whereas wideband can go like from 10-20..etc. Where i dun think anyone with a car requires one unless it bloody modded to run hyper rich!?!?! Normal cruising should be getting a Lean-Stoich alternate When let off accelerator should go to Rich for a moment then cut off. Edited May 11, 2007 by Lucien Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucien Neutral Newbie May 11, 2007 Share May 11, 2007 U can reset ur ECU to recover the readings. ECU takes a while to adjust. Because you touch the sparks the A/F ratio more or less will be affected Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitzed Neutral Newbie May 11, 2007 Share May 11, 2007 Not heavily modified.... 1) Bored Throttle Body 2) Coil Ignition Amplifier 3) Operated Exhaust 4) Walbro Fuel Pump 5) Blitz R-Vit and R-Fit plus a host of other stuff I have been leaning out from 1000 to 2500rpm as the stock AF ratio is too rich and hence a little sluggish....but adjusting via R-Fit.....much better.....but I am butt-dynoing hence I am not sure if I over-leaning at my low end.....from 4500rpm above....I also lean out about 7% so I get more power...... My main motivation is to maximise potential of my ride......and to make sure that I don't over lean out or enrich any rpm region (R-Vit is also showing narrowband O2 values).....Any place to recommend to install wideband AF ratio gauge? Is exhaust temp a better parameter to monitor? Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucien Neutral Newbie May 11, 2007 Share May 11, 2007 I read u lean out 7% Actually 5% would be good enough. Unless ur car is Hyundai which is ultra rich, can leab up to 8%. I do not suggest leaning anything beyond 4000k RPM. True, u may get more power since ratio is more to stoich, but the rich burn is there for a reason. When RPM higher, the rich burn helps to cool the engine. By leaning it at high RPM, i suggest u pray u dun burnout. Cuz if burnout, ur engine can scrap. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeobh 4th Gear May 11, 2007 Share May 11, 2007 You are right on the spot Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock 1st Gear May 11, 2007 Author Share May 11, 2007 Problem is, when I let go of the pedal, it doesn't jump to Rich at all. Only Stoich/Optimum. The recent things I did was changing of spark plugs (standard coppers ones) and adding Pivot VS Sparks Type S, which was plugged in via Fuse 15 via car cigarette jack, which the installer did. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock 1st Gear May 11, 2007 Author Share May 11, 2007 You are right on the spot Yeobh, Which one of my statements were you referring to? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blitzed Neutral Newbie May 11, 2007 Share May 11, 2007 Bro, if you use coil amplifier, do you also need ECU reset? Changing spark plugs will require ECU reset? Are our rides' ECUs so sensitive? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeobh 4th Gear May 11, 2007 Share May 11, 2007 From my experience all yr 3 statements sound right. By the way did you do a correct wire connections to yr lambda Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock 1st Gear May 11, 2007 Author Share May 11, 2007 Yes. It was only quite recently that the readings were off-normal. Only STOICH-LEAN-STOICH. Mostly STOICH. It's worrysome. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yuhsuan Neutral Newbie May 11, 2007 Share May 11, 2007 (edited) Walbro pump??? Your car NA or FI?? looking at your mods and despite not know whether your car is NA or FI, I would say this: get your car on dyno, stick a PROPER lambda in and tune. You CANNOT tune with a narrow band. Right now if you lean out too much esp at high rpm, you will ping your engine to pieces. Even if you do not believe in using a dyno, at least road tune with a proper wideband. You're really threading on thin ice here.... Typically at 4000 rpm to redline, even NA cars would aim to have an a/f ratio of about 12.5, at the most 13, TC cars about 12, even as low as 11+. You really should not be leaning out your fuel like this without knowing the ACTUAL a/f ratio. From what I know, EGT is an indirect way of knowing if you are leaning out too much but I honestly have no experience with this yet. Not heavily modified....1) Bored Throttle Body 2) Coil Ignition Amplifier 3) Operated Exhaust 4) Walbro Fuel Pump 5) Blitz R-Vit and R-Fit plus a host of other stuff I have been leaning out from 1000 to 2500rpm as the stock AF ratio is too rich and hence a little sluggish....but adjusting via R-Fit.....much better.....but I am butt-dynoing hence I am not sure if I over-leaning at my low end.....from 4500rpm above....I also lean out about 7% so I get more power...... My main motivation is to maximise potential of my ride......and to make sure that I don't over lean out or enrich any rpm region (R-Vit is also showing narrowband O2 values).....Any place to recommend to install wideband AF ratio gauge? Is exhaust temp a better parameter to monitor? Thanks! Edited May 11, 2007 by Yuhsuan ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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