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Blitz Induction Cover + CAI


Neotan
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Heard and read alot of good comments for the Aplexi open pod filter.

 

"A open pod will reduce low end because of leaner mixture(due to better breathing) and heat, this effect is especially evident on NA AT cars."

 

 

Is the above statement true? Saw alot of such replies and the the poster usually says "Got the info from a friend", "I heard ....", "I read in car club", "XYZ shop recommended ...".

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Neutral Newbie

I believe I said open pod enables the engine to breathe freely but what I am contesting against is that a CAI helps in terms of performance for a relatively stock production car.

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Neutral Newbie

Open pod allows more air flow.

 

More Air flow detected by MAF = ECU automatically richen up AFR to prevent running lean.

 

Intakes and exhaust mods will always cause the car to run rich due to more air flow.

 

Low end loss is not noticeable on intakes. The most noticeable low end loss is getting a full exhaust system (beginning on manifold onwards) that is bigger than necessary. This is mainly due to lack of back pressure.

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I would say cold air intake only help initially when the things is cold. After is warm up, the heat shield/closed pod material will be heat soaked, any outside air coming into the closed pod will be warm up when car is atationary, eg. waiting for red traffic lights to turn green. IMHO, only when cruising, will colder air be fed to the shielded/closed pod.

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Some common misconceptions about pod filter are

 

"open pod = lean A/F mixture"

"open pod = more air"

 

Wrong. Your ECU is responsible for A/F mixture by reading your O2 sensor voltage. And the amount of air that your engine can draw is governed by the atmospheric pressure and the size of your cyclinder, not the size of your air filter. An open pod simply makes drawing of air easier.

 

[dizzy][dizzy]

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Neutral Newbie

yes i would recommend BMC closed pod with CAI if ur ride is <2Litre NA auto and u can afford it..ard range $600-700

Edited by Evildoer
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my ride is 1.6L manual.

saw from BMC site, and am impressed with their

product specs.

 

but the price is [sweatdrop] , have to save on it

if my heart is set on this.

 

anyway, where's the best place for such installation?

 

cheers

[:)]

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Well, to put it in a unbias way (cos my company also sells air filters), when choosing an air filter, there are a few points to note.

 

1) Flow Rate

2) Filtration Efficiency

 

Flow rate will contradict with Filtration Efficiency. It is quite difficult to get a filter that allows good flow rate but yet offers superb filtration. If you can recall some vacuum machine test on air filters, you can dumb that test. Basically, a higher flow filter will appear to be more dirty because since the flow volume is higher, the dirt rate is of course higher. So in the test, those filters which are dirty DO NOT necessarily means they cannot filter properly but it can also means that their flow rate is much higher and thus traps more dirt in the test. (And a typical home vacuum cleaner can suck air from 2~4 BAR of pressure! Well unless you are running that kind of boost!)

 

Other stuffs like CAI and heat deflector are add-ons and good to have. If a filter has got CAI or boxed up, it should be good, PROVIDED it does not affect flow.

 

When we mod intake or induction pipings, the rule of thumb is that the longer, or more restrictive the piping to flow, the better it is for the low end torque but will suffer from starvation at higher rpm. On the other hand, the shorter the piping, the the throttle responds will come to live! And makes revving real easy but suffers some hesitation at low rpm. There is no single filter that excels in both fields, unless it is of a variable intake design.

 

Materials are also important. Factory rubbers are one of the best! They have less heat capacity (which was taught in Physics lesson) as compared to metal. So they will soak less heat in the short run but have heat soak problem in the longer run. However, on higher horse power cars, rubber tends to collapse under suction, which will normally be replaced by metal, aluminium will be better but more expensive so stainless steel are usually used because of their cheaper cost as well as "blink" and shinny property.

 

So when I choose a air filter, I will consider the above first and compare them, and give them a rating. And finally, adds up all these factors and see which scores the best. Nevertheless, this test works for you and your car only. Some may give priority over cost and low end torque, while others may give priority over throttle responds and flow rate.

Edited by Chisiang
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Neutral Newbie

they have an authorized dealer cum installer in SG...search for their website...wats ur ride???? to add on to wat chisiang had said:

 

1) make sure ur CAI piping is not too long

 

2) make sure the part connecting the closed pod to the engine part is make of hard rubber or metal (heat shield it) as this is where the suction is greatest, u dun wan to use rubber or plastic that will 'collapse' and restrict air flow at high rev

 

3) make sure ur closed pod and CAI piping is as straight as possible (not angled)

Edited by Evildoer
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i only recently read the Hypertune in malaysia that

i got to know abt BMC, the real deal in Carbon Dynamic Box!

 

will try to search for their website, and see if i can get

hold of them to check out the exact pricing.

 

any huge effect on FC with such setup?

sorry, if this qnn comes up over and over again..

petrol$ exp lah

[sweatdrop][sweatdrop]

 

cheers

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