Common crossover point for tweeter-midbass

[Hyun]

in the higher end 2-way component speakers, what are the more frequently-used crossover points for these 2 way, between the typically 1 inch tweeter and 6.5 inch midbass?

 

is it 3k? 4k?

 

this question is also posed to those running active. what is commonly set amongst u guys for this crossover point?

[Kwongwing]

Usually it could be anything from 2K to 6K depending on your speaker's capability, set-up, etc.

Do also tke note that the x-over for the high-pass of the tweeters and the low-pass for the mid-pass may also not be common and could potentially differ by up to 4K!

[Hyun]

i ask this because i'm thinking of making a passive crossover which wont be too wasted in future - at least can use for some common, good, popular speakers.

 

so if i end up using some strange value, i'll just have to toss it away next time, what a waste.

 

so for e.g. popular brands like cube higher end 2-way, focal utopia 2-way, what are the recommended active / passive cross points?

 

was it recommended by the manufacturer to leave a gap in the crossover as well, or was that personal tuning?

[Kwongwing]

For the passive systems, the x-over point is not a recommended point - for the Cube Acoustic spkrs, depending on the particular model the x-over point is one of the following: 2K, 3.2K, 4K and 5K.

I would say is it impossible to make a general purpose x-over that would sound good across the board - if that is what you wish to do you can just take any stock x-over unit.

As for the gap, it is dependent on your tuner and personal preference. Take note that the slope also matters hor!

HAVE FUN!!!

[Hyun]

the highest end cube uses 2k for 2-way?

and the 2nd highest end uses 3.2k?

[Wankie]

hyun, see here :

 

sx-f : http://www.cubeacoustic.com/sxSpecs.htm

 

cerafine : http://www.cubeacoustic.com/crSpecs.htm

[Hyun]

wah quite power, 2k handling by 28mm voice coil. this ceraphim is a higher end one hor.

sx is lowest range? 3.2-3.6k not bad leh.

[Lionheart7004]

in the higher end 2-way component speakers, what are the more frequently-used crossover points for these 2 way, between the typically 1 inch tweeter and 6.5 inch midbass?

 

is it 3k? 4k?

 

this question is also posed to those running active. what is commonly set amongst u guys for this crossover point?

 

Check out the frequecy range of your driver.. e.g. tweeter has a recommned low range xover point. Usually it is being stretched .. e.g. My ribbon has a recommended reading of 2.5k at 2nd Order Xover.

 

While the mid-woofer has a range.. 50hz to 2.5k at 12DB also. that is for my Seas drivers.

 

Check out the value of your driver to derive the range first.

[Hyun]

that's the problem. i've emailed CDT. they dont wanna say. they just reply - we don't recommend using this speaker for active. our warranty only covers passive crossover use.

 

(no, i din say i was going to mod. i told them i was going active.)

 

their webpage also doesn't have details on the tweet. only the midbass driver.

[Lionheart7004]

okay.. then you have to do frequency responses readings liao.

[Hyun]

u mean RTA. well i dun have that capability ... so i'll just have to guess lor. i wired it active to try for a few days, and it seemed ok.

[User12343]

i used to have a set of CDT HD set, the flimsy passive satnet456 XO was real bad in manufacturing quality. Copied their entire crossover design onto a newer PCB and used premium Solen caps, air-cored inductors and wirewound resistors (bot from Martin's) and found that the XO is running between 3kHz ~ 3.6kHz.

 

using my DIY XO to replace the satnets, there is a significant difference in the high-frequency part. till now, it's still working fine

[Hyun]

i'm doing almost just that. my tweet is the HD tweet. the midbass is the CL one, so it's being relaxed if i lower the xover point.

 

i'm targetting about 3050-3170 due to the fixed value of components i got, and that Q thing which i just read it's the shape of the slope and knee, is a bit higher than linkwitz-riley (some say link-riley is 0.49, some say 0.50, i donno) ...

 

hope it works, or i'll just have to get more inductance to add to it. interesting it's easy to add and subtract everything except SUBTRACTING CAPACITANCE. that's the hardest.

 

so u're still a CDT HD bro now? we're quite rare breed here leh, CDT. we need a thread all to ourselves hehe.

[User12343]

IMHO, it's real difficult to make such small changes between 3050 and 3170 by just altering component values, based on the current de-facto standard of capacitance values.

 

no more passive for me. once u embark on 4-way active, there's no turning back

 

now my homemade passive XO is in the hall of fame

[Hyun]

what u're saying is small differences are hard to adjust for?

 

i'm thinking i have to get a 0.05mH coil to add to it, or to unwind a bigger 0.50mH coil down to size. or live with the discrepancy.

 

it's been great msg'ing with u, user12343, wonder if u'll pop by one of the meet ups one day? would love to see your system, CDT bro. yah i also want active, but hate the idea of sacrificing more space for 1 more channel amp. but it's the most cost effective way, really. cheaper than burning $ on DIY components. but i'm just taking it as a learning process since i've gone this far ...

 

seriously, the phrase "active cross has made passive a thing of the past" is quite true? except in the cases where, like in some HU, the HU cross doesn't go down to -24db/oct.

 

what do u think of these active cross, are phase problems still present? as well as those lobing, off-axis problems? since in the car environment we're off-axis ALL the time, we really need a cross that handles off-axis well ...

[Erwinseow]

What user12343 is saying is that standard caps and inductor go by 10,22,33, 47, 56, 68..etc. You cannot get any value you want. :)

[User12343]

acherly, caps are pretty fixed in values. but some inductors can be tailored to have the required inductance values.

 

esp for those non-glued inductors where you can put across an inductance meter, slowly unwind to the required inductors, chop off the excess conductors, and tat's it.

[Erwinseow]

Yes! I think my ex-power supply vendor can do that. ha ha.