Fuel Consumption Saving Tips

[Darthrevan]

Too much traction. This usually happens when the tyre is under inflated. It drastically kills the momentum of the vehicle. That requires you to step harder and longer on your accelerator to keep the vehicle in constant motion. Thus a loss in fuel efficiency.

 

Those who carry heavy loads or passengers constantly would need to relook at their tyre pressure.

 

The rule of thumb is to inflate the tyre to 200 or 220 kpa. This rule changes when your load increases.

 

How abt the use of performance or comfort tyres? lets say I wish to use performance grippy tyres..how?

 

 

[Hypermiler]

How abt the use of performance or comfort tyres? lets say I wish to use performance grippy tyres..how?

 

 

There is a trade off in something for using another. Can't have it both ways.

 

Try low rolling resistance tyres.

 

[Hypermiler]

 

These are just tips. Not advices or rules. I won't tell or make people do things against their grain.

 

There are silent members who come here to gather a thing or two and bring back something applicable to their needs. They would like to give the tips a try and maybe gain something from it. They may not agree with everything but I'm sure some of the tips have become useful to them.

 

It's different to compare race driving needs to the needs of daily commuting drive.

 

For a professional track racer, high fuel consumption is not an issue. Winning is what they are after.

 

For a commuting driver, their aim is getting from point A to point B.

 

Anyway, the discussion here is based on the use of roads made for the purpose of commuting.

 

If fast driving is what some drivers want, they have to expect some sacrifice elsewhere.

 

This is just a tip sharing thread.

 

 

 

 

[Darthrevan]

There is a trade off in something for using another. Can't have it both ways.

 

Try low rolling resistance tyres.

 

Thank you. I tried some of the tips which I never do before and gain a +2km/litre for the past 2 months, its not so much of the fuel savings in terms of monetary terms but I'm doing it more for the environment

[Hypermiler]

Most welcome.

 

I gained something too picking up tips here and there.

 

The one i was apprehensive about trying. Using engine oils with lower viscosity. The fear was unfounded.

 

As long as i send my car for regular check-ups or servicing it's totally fine. Three times a year as per the manufacturer's recommendation.

 

The gain is significant to me. 35 Litre tank multiply by 2.something km multiply by 25 days multiply by 11.5 months. That is many kilometers more for me.

 

Save money, save environment, save some fuel for our next few generations to play with.

 

 

[Haziqko]

Yes of course.... like the things in school we learn but only use small % in life... [laugh]

[Ag123]

new spark plug verdict is out (those expensive Iridium type)

before esso 5000 10.93 km/l - 236 km

change paper air filter - 12.02 km/l - 239 km

new Iridium spark plugs - 12.18 km/l - 184 km

caltex 98 - 10.1 l km/l - 231 km

esso 5000 - 10.46 km/l - 186 km

 

50% highway / 50 % city

note mixture of different driving conditions for the above, those 12.02 l / km probably have more uncongested highway %, vs city driving

 

 

new Iridium spark plugs makes almost imperceptible impact to fuel economy

 

update:

esso 5000 - 11.57 km/l - 253 km (a bit less reving from traffic lights and mostly 80 km/h on highway only occasional 90km/h on highway

guess how 1 drive made most of the diff, & i die die won't go back to the old worn out sparkie, at least wif the iridiums i can rev more if i wan (no more the old sloppy)

 

btw max speed on highway made a big diff cos of physics - drag

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_(physics)#Power

drag is velocity to the power of 3 !

i guess find that ideal cruse speed for 1's veh can max the km per drop of fuel

btw energy loss = rolling resistance + braking losses + drag

 

rolling resistance is a function of tyre + clutch + gear + internal engine friction (use good synthetic engine oil)

so if 1 drive too slow, all the energy get burn in rolling resistance, poor fuel economy oso

 

if machiam can do this that would be ideal

brake energy recovery

http://www.google.com.sg/search?hl=en&...mp;aql=&oq=

(too bad to get that 1, 1 need to drive http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Prius, 100k+ darn X )

Edited January 15, 2011 by Ag123

[Ag123]

any 1 drooling after this type of eco mods? convert waste heat to charge batteries, machiam cool but likely expensive, & worst it is phd research material for now, cannot even buy that off the shelf

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_Th...tric_Generators

http://www.netwelding.com/Save_Gasoline_2.htm

Edited January 15, 2011 by Ag123

[Ag123]

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/best/bestworstNF.shtml

Toyota Prius

51 miles per gallon - 21.68 km per liter

 

some forum hypermilers almost touch that wif normal cars

Edited January 15, 2011 by Ag123

[Ag123]

How abt the use of performance or comfort tyres? lets say I wish to use performance grippy tyres..how?

 

the last time while hunting for tyres i saw this 1, & drooling

Michelin Energy Saver

 

but those u get in sg & perhaps SEA is Michelin EnergyXM1 (note different tyre)

http://www.michelin.com.sg/tyre/patterndet...erCar/EnergyXM1

& accoring to some forum post a XM1 bit slippery in the wet

http://pitstop.------.com/idb_view_item....d=20&iid=61

Edited January 15, 2011 by Ag123

[Yumi]

These are just tips. Not advices or rules. I won't tell or make people do things against their grain.

 

There are silent members who come here to gather a thing or two and bring back something applicable to their needs. They would like to give the tips a try and maybe gain something from it. They may not agree with everything but I'm sure some of the tips have become useful to them.

 

It's different to compare race driving needs to the needs of daily commuting drive.

 

For a professional track racer, high fuel consumption is not an issue. Winning is what they are after.

 

For a commuting driver, their aim is getting from point A to point B.

 

Anyway, the discussion here is based on the use of roads made for the purpose of commuting.

 

If fast driving is what some drivers want, they have to expect some sacrifice elsewhere.

 

This is just a tip sharing thread.

 

agreed with you saying

 

[Darthrevan]

the last time while hunting for tyres i saw this 1, & drooling

 

thanks..the Michelin Energy i did consider but its pricier and the wet grip not so good

[Blast]

Hi, do your guys know, is a new tech came out from South Africa. is the Microreactor, uses no battery, no wires, simple installation, basic maintenance free, INVISIBLE TO ALL SENSORS, AS BEEN REPORTED 41.6 % savings, i think it has a potential, check them out, www.microreactor.webs.com

[Ithunk]

depends on foot

[Justincjt]

Hi does anyone know if a boostmaster broquet will help for a subaru impreza?

[Ag123]

Too much traction. This usually happens when the tyre is under inflated. It drastically kills the momentum of the vehicle. That requires you to step harder and longer on your accelerator to keep the vehicle in constant motion. Thus a loss in fuel efficiency.

 

Those who carry heavy loads or passengers constantly would need to relook at their tyre pressure.

 

The rule of thumb is to inflate the tyre to 200 or 220 kpa. This rule changes when your load increases.

 

misconception lah... maximum traction is when tyres are optimally inflated. There will be less traction if they are under- or over-inflated...

 

but the end-result is as you have mentioned... lack of traction is why there is a loss in fuel effiency...

 

proven liao

higher tyre pressure = lower rolling resistance on your tyres = better fuel economy

http://www.analyticcycling.com/ForcesTires_Page.html

http://www.fredericgrappe.com/CV/bibliographie/D4.pdf

(yup that is for bicycle, if u need to paddle your car like flint stones u sure want lower rolling resistance, only diff is oil is doing all that paddling )

 

so pump your tyres up & save fuel, but dun be greedy & over pump so fat till going to pom chek or i think before that, the tyre/vehicle may skid due to over inflation - no safety, pump to the recommended tyre pressure (e.g. stated in manual or somewhere), think can expreiment +/- 1 to 2 PSI (5-15 kpa)

 

[Hypermiler]

proven liao

higher tyre pressure = lower rolling resistance on your tyres = better fuel economy

http://www.analyticcycling.com/ForcesTires_Page.html

http://www.fredericgrappe.com/CV/bibliographie/D4.pdf

(yup that is for bicycle, if u need to paddle your car like flint stones u sure want lower rolling resistance, only diff is oil is doing all that paddling )

 

so pump your tyres up & save fuel, but dun be greedy & over pump so fat till going to pom chek or i think before that, the tyre/vehicle may skid due to over inflation - no safety, pump to the recommended tyre pressure (e.g. stated in manual or somewhere), think can expreiment +/- 1 to 2 PSI (5-15 kpa)

 

 

 

The manual will usually give you recommended tyre pressures meant for "No cargo & no passengers" driving mode.

 

So unless you drive alone with nothing in the booth all the time, the vehicle manual is correct.

 

For my case, i have three other passengers with me one-third the driving time. So i have to pump more.

 

Different tyres have different safety ratings. Please refer to your tyre ratings.

 

After some trial and error, i now pump my tyres between 10% to 15% less than the manufacturer's maximum recommended pressure.

 

I do not drive above the recommended speed limits of the roads, and neither do i drive recklessly or "spiritedly" or in a possessed manner. So my tyre pressure suits me fine.

 

My personal rule of thumb is to keep an exceptionally good safety distance to the car in front relative to the weather/road conditions, relative to the braking ability of my vehicle and my driving speed, and relative to the ability of my psycho motor coordination.

 

 

 

[Okitri]

beside keep saving fuel consumption, we also must keep our engine still cool

more tips to keep our engine still coll , check this http://autocarpedia.com/the-way-to-inspect...ing-system.html