Fuel Consumption Saving Tips

[Hypermiler]

 

There are many gravely mistaken notions about what Hypermilers do.

 

1) Drive slowly. Block the road. Road Hogging.

 

2) Tailgating dangerously.

 

3) Riding on free gear. Riding on free gear with engine "off".

 

4) Connering at dangerously high speeds.

 

5) you add your list.

 

The reality is quite the opposite.

Hypermilers do not hypermile at the expense of safety or causing inconsideration to other road users.

 

Full-time advocates of hypermiling always keep to the slowest lanes whenever possible.

 

They always keep a clear distance from the vehicle in front.

 

They use the glide and pulse technique with auto cars. Not switch off the engine or ride on "N" position.

 

For manual gear shift drivers. They use the clutch for gliding when it's safe to do so but never disengaging the gear putting to neutral.

 

Before approaching a turn, hypermilers release throttle earlier than the usual just so that the car slows to a comfortable speed for turning without having to brake very hard.

 

These are some of the points i would like to raise because sometime back, a "one-hit-wonder" poster insinuated that i road hog and tailgate when i did my hypermiling.

[Ag123]

new spark plug verdict is out (those expensive Iridium type)

before esso 5000 10.93 l / km - 236 km

change paper air filter - 12.02 l / km - 239 km

new Iridium spark plugs - 12.18 l /km - 184 km

caltex 98 - 10.1 l /km - 231 km

esso 5000 - 10.46 l/km - 186 km

 

50% highway / 50 % city

note mixture of different driving conditions for the above, those 12.02 l / km probably have more uncongested highway %, vs city driving

 

 

new Iridium spark plugs makes almost imperceptible impact to fuel economy

Edited January 8, 2011 by Ag123

[Ag123]

hi hypermiler,

 

thanks for the contribs, u're right: how 1 drives (& perhaps traffic conditions) make more diff than mods or fuel / car drugs (fuel additives) etc .

 

all those mods can be expensive & need not make much diff

http://ecomodder.com/forum/fuel-economy-mp...difications.php

 

the exception being an engine defect e.g. failing oxygen sensors, which may probably be improved thru proper servicing & maintenance by good mechanics

 

[Hypermiler]

 

Hi Ag123

 

Fully agree with you. No one can change the law of physics.

 

There are many factors that can cause a vehicle to lose fuel efficiency.

 

1) Friction in the moving parts.

2) Too much traction from the tyres.

3) Misaligned wheels.

4) Faulty firing devices.... spark plugs/timing.

5) Insufficient air intake.... clogged air filters.

6) Over loading of vehicle.

7) Aerodynamics (applicable to only those who travel at very high speeds).

8) Weak batteries causing stress to engine trying to get it recharged.

9) Use of inappropriate fuel type.

10) Unreplaced worn out parts.

 

Once drivers or riders are fully aware of the above and make effort to correct them, they can really experience the "trapped" power being released back to their vehicles.

 

Note:- There is no INCREASE in power. It is the power that your vehicle originally delivers. As parts get worn and damages go unrepaired, these contribute bit by bit to the "power robbing devil".

 

It takes conscious effort on our part to rectify the above list constantly. It does cost money but it will help to save alot in the long run.

 

Our driving habit plays the biggest part in fuel efficiency and economy. Easily up to 30% improvement.

 

Knowing what is enough to propel the vehicle from one point to another is crucial. We usually unconsciously use more than excess.

 

It takes alot of effort to develop a sensitive "Feel" to our vehicles. Everytime we change rides, we have to start all over again.

 

One need not drive slow to save fuel. We can cruise at higher speeds selecting the right gear for the right amount of torque for the existing traffic conditions we travel in. Then, using the built-up momentum, keep the vehicle as close to constant speed as possible.

 

For auto car drivers like myself, i have learnt to fool the car into up-shifting earlier than usual. It takes alot of practise to develop that feel.

 

I also try to avoid letting the turbo boost come into play. I watch the rev counter and boost counter closely when i need to accelerate.

 

It does seem impossible to do all and have all. But if you really want it... You can do it.

[Kangadrool]

Hi Ag123

 

 

For auto car drivers like myself, i have learnt to fool the car into up-shifting earlier than usual. It takes alot of practise to develop that feel.

 

It does not help if your engine is DVVT or similar. Upshifting too early may actually result in higher fuel consumption. It may only help if the road surface is 100% level and smooth. Even a slight incline of the road surface will result in drastic increase in FC on a higher gear.

 

Tried feathering throttle, but end up higher FC consistently. [bigcry]

[Hypermiler]

 

My apologies. Totally forgotten about CVVT vehicle owners.

 

Guess the best way is to allow your vehicle's variable transmission do its own work.

 

I have actually seen a CVVT work in action.

 

I rode on a Yamaha Turf Mate with its cover open. Interesting to see how the "squeezing" action of the two plates affect the diameter of the driving belt.

 

Just try you best Bro. Find other ways to improve your FC. All the best.

 

 

[Hypermiler]

Hi again, Ag123,

 

Went thru the Ecomodder site you recommended. Saw this tip about using low viscosity engine oil within spec limit of car manufacturer. The eco gain icon indicated good gains.

 

Went to buy a 1 litre bottle of low viscosity Mobil engine oil to try. My engine is very small and "weak" by comparison to the many cars around. So any difference in power gain is easily noticeable.

 

It's true. So smooth with so much excess torque when i allowed my car to coast and glide to the traffic stop. Have to step on brakes a little harder when waiting at red traffic. Can feel the extra auto trans "creep". Not like before.

 

Acceleration is improved. Auto gear upshifting earlier than before.

 

Tested with 3.5 litres of fuel. Distance travelled is 78 km (22.28 km/L). (have been hovering at 19 to 19.5 km/L for the past one month). A gain of 2.78km per litre.

 

Good tip!!! Thanks.

[Thedream]

Hi Ag123

 

Fully agree with you. No one can change the law of physics.

 

There are many factors that can cause a vehicle to lose fuel efficiency.

 

1) Friction in the moving parts.

2) Too much traction from the tyres.

3) Misaligned wheels.

4) Faulty firing devices.... spark plugs/timing.

5) Insufficient air intake.... clogged air filters.

6) Over loading of vehicle.

7) Aerodynamics (applicable to only those who travel at very high speeds).

8) Weak batteries causing stress to engine trying to get it recharged.

9) Use of inappropriate fuel type.

10) Unreplaced worn out parts.

 

i'm getting a feeling of deja vue, but how does "too much traction from the tyres" cause a vehicle to lose fuel efficiency?

[Thedream]

I think I have mentioned this tip before. It is most often overlook.

 

Always ensure that your car or motorbike battery is in tip top condition... i.e. it is fully charged.

 

I know it's not possible for highrise residence to do this.... but for those who stay in landed properties, charge your batteries overnight when you return from work.

 

You can buy the charger from auto shops. Price varies brand to brand, feature to feature.

 

It's good if the charger has an auto function. It will allow your battery to switch to "float" when it is fully charged.

 

There is a notable difference in FC driving around with a fully charge battery than one that is lacking.

 

Other than that, the most obvious tip is to inflate your tyres above the usual. Mine is always just 10% to 15% under the maximum allowable pressure.

 

aren't our car baterries always charged by the car's alternator?

[Good-Carbuyer]

I think I have mentioned this tip before. It is most often overlook.

 

Always ensure that your car or motorbike battery is in tip top condition... i.e. it is fully charged.

 

I know it's not possible for highrise residence to do this.... but for those who stay in landed properties, charge your batteries overnight when you return from work.

 

You can buy the charger from auto shops. Price varies brand to brand, feature to feature.

 

It's good if the charger has an auto function. It will allow your battery to switch to "float" when it is fully charged.

 

There is a notable difference in FC driving around with a fully charge battery than one that is lacking.

 

Other than that, the most obvious tip is to inflate your tyres above the usual. Mine is always just 10% to 15% under the maximum allowable pressure.

I believe the ideal charging can be achieved by driving at cruising speed (manufacturers' designed charging speed), without help of external battery charger

[Good-Carbuyer]

There are many gravely mistaken notions about what Hypermilers do.

 

1) Drive slowly. Block the road. Road Hogging.

 

2) Tailgating dangerously.

 

3) Riding on free gear. Riding on free gear with engine "off".

 

4) Connering at dangerously high speeds.

 

5) you add your list.

 

The reality is quite the opposite.

Hypermilers do not hypermile at the expense of safety or causing inconsideration to other road users.

 

Full-time advocates of hypermiling always keep to the slowest lanes whenever possible.

 

They always keep a clear distance from the vehicle in front.

 

They use the glide and pulse technique with auto cars. Not switch off the engine or ride on "N" position.

 

For manual gear shift drivers. They use the clutch for gliding when it's safe to do so but never disengaging the gear putting to neutral.

 

Before approaching a turn, hypermilers release throttle earlier than the usual just so that the car slows to a comfortable speed for turning without having to brake very hard.

 

These are some of the points i would like to raise because sometime back, a "one-hit-wonder" poster insinuated that i road hog and tailgate when i did my hypermiling.

Many thanks for sharing with us. Agree that tail-gating/road-hogging are more theory than practical for application on test-track, not for commuting on the roads.

I believe in keeping a clear distance from the vehicle in front, it is like convoy driving. Can we do a little better than that like start off at pole positions? Used to drive sub-1.0L engine cars for their FC. Charged up on hypermiling after switching to 1.5L car (unlikely to return to sub-1.0L engine models)

Along regular flat routes, we can try to use the distance before the turning to slow the vehicle, for reduced brake application

The logic behind these changes: current 1.3L car allows me to be in pole position more often to avoid tail-gating/road-hoggers. Being the lead car of convoys, allows me to miss traffic jams. It is less stressful to drive with a clear road ahead.

I believe the manufacturers' FC for highway can be exceeded if the above can be observed.

Vehicle for hypermiling: aerodynamics more significant over lighter weight for stop-less long distance driving. and lighter weight over aerodynamics for frequent acceleration/stopping traffic

Edited January 12, 2011 by Good-Carbuyer

[Hypermiler]

i'm getting a feeling of deja vue, but how does "too much traction from the tyres" cause a vehicle to lose fuel efficiency?

 

 

Too much traction. This usually happens when the tyre is under inflated. It drastically kills the momentum of the vehicle. That requires you to step harder and longer on your accelerator to keep the vehicle in constant motion. Thus a loss in fuel efficiency.

 

Those who carry heavy loads or passengers constantly would need to relook at their tyre pressure.

 

The rule of thumb is to inflate the tyre to 200 or 220 kpa. This rule changes when your load increases.

 

[Hypermiler]

aren't our car baterries always charged by the car's alternator?

 

 

Assuming that your alternator is in tip top condition and your battery is in constant good health. The battery Will Be Assumed to be fully charged by the alternator Always.

 

However, things are never perfect. So many variables affect the state of battery charge.

 

Those who drive very short distances or make very short trips frequently throughout the day will find their battery undercharged.

 

Those who have self-installed too many electrical devices in their cars may also find their battery undercharged.

 

The lifespan of the battery may be shorter than in specs or theory.

 

[Haziqko]

Hey dude,

 

I guess its difficult trying to tell people how to have a good driving habit and even difficult making people do proper servicing for their cars as the mindset of drivers in SG is always "My car looks like a sports car" and "My car can go very fast" or "My car very shiny"... its always about the outlook... but seldom about engine works... or fuel economy works.

 

They want everything to just go zoom...!!! But also want good FC... [laugh]

 

 

 

 

[Melvinyuen]

Hey dude,

 

I guess its difficult trying to tell people how to have a good driving habit and even difficult making people do proper servicing for their cars as the mindset of drivers in SG is always "My car looks like a sports car" and "My car can go very fast" or "My car very shiny"... its always about the outlook... but seldom about engine works... or fuel economy works.

 

They want everything to just go zoom...!!! But also want good FC... [laugh]

 

best of both worlds?

hahaha

[Haziqko]

Try telling that to Alonso or Schumacher...

[Thedream]

Too much traction. This usually happens when the tyre is under inflated. It drastically kills the momentum of the vehicle. That requires you to step harder and longer on your accelerator to keep the vehicle in constant motion. Thus a loss in fuel efficiency.

 

Those who carry heavy loads or passengers constantly would need to relook at their tyre pressure.

 

The rule of thumb is to inflate the tyre to 200 or 220 kpa. This rule changes when your load increases.

 

misconception lah... maximum traction is when tyres are optimally inflated. There will be less traction if they are under- or over-inflated...

 

but the end-result is as you have mentioned... lack of traction is why there is a loss in fuel effiency...

 

[Thedream]

Assuming that your alternator is in tip top condition and your battery is in constant good health. The battery Will Be Assumed to be fully charged by the alternator Always.

 

However, things are never perfect. So many variables affect the state of battery charge.

 

Those who drive very short distances or make very short trips frequently throughout the day will find their battery undercharged.

 

Those who have self-installed too many electrical devices in their cars may also find their battery undercharged.

 

The lifespan of the battery may be shorter than in specs or theory.

 

orr... ok... more for people of these cases lah...