Fuel Consumption Saving Tips

[Good-Carbuyer]

Yes, its do-able. Yes, in singapore roads. Yes, it SEEMS damn bloody impossible.

 

I admit that it is difficult to re-learn how to drive the Eco way when one is so used to "spirited-driving". I have tried relearning to drive economically and failed many times. So i DO know why some people are skeptical.

 

After some time, I have also managed to break my old habit and achieved the results i wanted. So don't expect over-night results just by gathering all the info here. It TAKES EFFORT to relearn how to drive.

 

As i have mentioned earlier. I don't know if some readers choose to deliberately ignore reading. I did say anticipate traffic way ahead to avoid "rev-brake" driving. Rev & Brake driving is one of the main reasons for high fuel consumption.

Ever observed 28.83km/L with Accent 1.5M on PIE, need to think out of the box.

Perhaps some readers not English-educated?

[Good-Carbuyer]

Actually, I have been seriously considering alternative mode of transport, not so much to save fuel, & running cost, but rather building physical activities into everyday life. Maybe not to work, or long distance, but to nearby places like town centres.

 

But thinking about it, I could have park my car at none congested area, & skid scot to the area.

 

I am thinking of skid scooter or a beater bicycle. When I was in Amsterdam just a week ago, most of the girls (even aunties, but maybe not as much) are very slim & curvy, & I think the cycling mode of going places must aid to it. You hardly see any fat people.

 

The down point is unlike Amsterdam, our weather is a killer, walk at night also sweat, let alone doing more, & in the day.....& I hate to be sweaty unless I am doing delicate exercise regime.

Once I find it conducive, I cycled a road bike to work and sight-seeing

[Good-Carbuyer]

also heard volt stabilizer helps in reducing FC... really?

I believe finding out where is/are the traffic jam(s) and detouring around it/them most significant FC reduction method

[Good-Carbuyer]

haiz... my personal best is only 15.8km/l with my Fit.... somemore is from Seremban back to spore....

 

getting avg of 14km/l nia... with RON98 and very light-footing.... staying below 2k rpm most of the time....

Can share with us why you did that? (I believe that is bellow cruising speed for the car)

[Good-Carbuyer]

Yesterday managed to achieve 22 km/litre.

 

1) Light footed. Not above 3K rpm unless necessary.

2) Kept 3 to 4 car lengths away .. above 60km/hr. 2 to 3 car lengths .. below 60km/hr.

3) Cruising between 70 ~ 80km/hr.

4) Smooth acceleration and deceleration.

5) Tyre 25% above recommended.

6) 50% highway. 50% HDB estate.

7) Air-Con was ON all the way.

8) Added a bottle of $2.89 japanese fuel additive.

9) Fuel = Caltex 92.

10) Human additive ... 1 can of Redbull (thailand export).

Can share with us what car you driving? Also why you cruised 70-80km/h/add additive?

[Stanchiam]

Can share with us what car you driving? Also why you cruised 70-80km/h/add additive?

anything above that speed air drag will come in and therefore less economy. More power is wasted for less increase in speed.

Edited January 3, 2011 by Stanchiam

[Good-Carbuyer]

anything above that speed air drag will come in and therefore less economy. More power is wasted for less increase in speed.

Many thanks for sharing with us. I thought our 90km/H expressway more for fuel economy friendly than 70-80km/H (are your refering to MPV/SUV?). NSH 110km/H even more fuel economy friendly (can get 28.83km/L with Accent 1.5M sedan).

[Ben5266]

Can share with us what car you driving? Also why you cruised 70-80km/h/add additive?

Mitsubishi i, if I am not mistaken.

[Good-Carbuyer]

Mitsubishi i, if I am not mistaken.

Many thanks for the information. Ever read a not quite impressive article on that car many year ago?

Edited January 3, 2011 by Good-Carbuyer

[Ag123]

Many thanks for sharing with us. I thought our 90km/H expressway more for fuel economy friendly than 70-80km/H (are your refering to MPV/SUV?). NSH 110km/H even more fuel economy friendly (can get 28.83km/L with Accent 1.5M sedan).

 

wah seh, can share how u get 28.8 for Accent bro?

i machiam get 11+ now trying beri hard to push 10% more sweat oready

 

btw, after changing a old spark plug, i could say fine tipped spark plug works, (more power / fuel economy at the lower RPMs), driving in traffic jam condition improved somewhat wif fine tipped spark (better engine rev up in those conditions), & i feel it improved fuel economy at those 1st / 2nd gear revs, after change the plugs i get to climb MSCP 6 floor on next day, amazingly clocked 12 km / l

 

but now kena *spark knock* darn irritating, machiam like driving diesel taxi, can fix if upgrade to RON 98, but fuel consumption drop (10 km/l) on premium fuel

 

still in the early stage wif the new iridium spark plugs, 2nd tank of fuel, still monitoring

 

just 2 cents

Edited January 3, 2011 by Ag123

[Good-Carbuyer]

wah seh, can share how u get 28.8 for Accent bro?

i machiam get 11+ now trying beri hard to push 10% more sweat oready

 

btw, after changing a old spark plug, i could say fine tipped spark plug works, (more power / fuel economy at the lower RPMs), driving in traffic jam condition improved somewhat wif fine tipped spark (better engine rev up in those conditions), & i feel it improved fuel economy at those 1st / 2nd gear revs, after change the plugs i get to climb MSCP 6 floor fully people loaded on next day, amazingly clocked 12 km / l

 

but now kena *spark knock* darn irritating, machiam like driving diesel taxi, can fix if upgrade to RON 98, but fuel consumption drop (10 km/l) on premium fuel

 

still in the early stage wif the new iridium spark plugs, 2nd tank of fuel, still monitoring

 

just 2 cents

I believe to be ideal conducive environment that allowed it. The car subsequently broke down and was sold off before I could repeat it.

[Ag123]

Yes, its do-able. Yes, in singapore roads. Yes, it SEEMS damn bloody impossible.

 

I admit that it is difficult to re-learn how to drive the Eco way when one is so used to "spirited-driving". I have tried relearning to drive economically and failed many times. So i DO know why some people are skeptical.

 

After some time, I have also managed to break my old habit and achieved the results i wanted. So don't expect over-night results just by gathering all the info here. It TAKES EFFORT to relearn how to drive.

 

As i have mentioned earlier. I don't know if some readers choose to deliberately ignore reading. I did say anticipate traffic way ahead to avoid "rev-brake" driving. Rev & Brake driving is one of the main reasons for high fuel consumption.

 

thanks much and agreed, city driving (e.g. traffic jams) makes it difficult to improve fuel consumption. after all the car need energy to accelerate and braking waste all that energy which 1 accelerated the car to. i guess really good fuel economy are achievable mainly on uncongested highways where 1 gets to cruise the car at a 'sweet spot' speed. i guess that's slightly diff between cars, i.e. for each drop of fuel, 1 maximize the work done to 'push' the engine on while reducing the effects of wind resistance / friction etc.

 

other parts relates to maintaining and 'tuning' the engine i think, that's hard and i think wouldn't work on fairly new cars (e.g. 1-2 years old) that is running well.

on http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/maintain.shtml that:

"fixing faulty oxygen sensor, can improve your mileage by as much as 40 percent"

 

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/drive.shtml also has many other tips.

 

i've actually ventured into some of the chim chim stuff on the net & if 1 would like to walk that route, 1'd get into a (interesting?) learning journey of fuel / air ratios, combustion engines, various parts of the car (e.g. guess many newbies couldn't tell betw the diff between the components and their functions: Oxygen sensors / Mass Airflow Sensor / Fuel injectors / etc, ECM/ECU and its critical role in spark / ignition timing / fuel injection - cars run on computers these days)

 

so some links for the fanatics

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio

http://www.carbibles.com/fuel_engine_bible.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuel_injection

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_timing

http://rescomp.stanford.edu/~efroeh/papers...Performance.pdf

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

Edited January 3, 2011 by Ag123

[Hypermiler]

I will reply to the person who is curious to know what 2000cc car i drove to achieve 14 km/L.

 

It's my former boss's Mercedes Benz. More than 2000 cc. Almost 3000. I was a limo chaffeur before. I drive in mixed road conditions.

 

How do i achieve it? You see, my boss loves to read in the car and she hates drivers who cannot control throttle smoothly. Very very fussy. So I forced myself to drive very smoothly. And that became my habit.

 

Mercedes Benz as i know is a very high tech car and is touted to have the best fuel economy among high cc cars.

 

 

To Good-Carbuyer

I drive a Mitsubishi I. That's my personal transport.

 

Yes I do use fuel additive occasionally. I use engine metal treatment at every oil change.

 

The reason why i cruise at speeds between 70-80 km/hr.... Keep the engine rev below 3000 rpm. And also to prevent my turbo unit from kicking in.

 

My former cars:-

Honda Accord - Best mileage - 15.2 km/l

Renault Kangoo - Diesel - 16.6 km/l

 

 

 

[Hypermiler]

zz.

Edited January 4, 2011 by Hypermiler

[Hypermiler]

zz.

Edited January 4, 2011 by Hypermiler

[Hypermiler]

Many thanks for the information. Ever read a not quite impressive article on that car many year ago?

 

Well.... It depends on whether the car suits the person's needs and expectation or not.

 

I know and I m highly aware that the Mitsubishi I is a 660cc car before i bought it.

When i test drove it, it performed just as i expected. Just like a 660cc car but with very smooth comfort and powerful air-conditioning.

 

Some goons will tell you or write stuff like "it lacks power", "it's too cramp inside", "it takes forever to speed up", "it has poor centre of gravity", "it cannot take corners aggressively", "it lacks stance", "no ooomph", "plasticky parts"....blah blah blah.

 

What basis and reference are their opinions relative too?

 

Simply put it. Compare apples with apples and oranges with oranges.

 

Not all articles are written with intelligence and forethought. Not all writers know about writing a report as a report should be.

 

 

 

 

 

[Good-Carbuyer]

I will reply to the person who is curious to know what 2000cc car i drove to achieve 14 km/L.

 

It's my former boss's Mercedes Benz. More than 2000 cc. Almost 3000. I was a limo chaffeur before. I drive in mixed road conditions.

 

How do i achieve it? You see, my boss loves to read in the car and she hates drivers who cannot control throttle smoothly. Very very fussy. So I forced myself to drive very smoothly. And that became my habit.

 

Mercedes Benz as i know is a very high tech car and is touted to have the best fuel economy among high cc cars.

 

 

To Good-Carbuyer

I drive a Mitsubishi I. That's my personal transport.

 

Yes I do use fuel additive occasionally. I use engine metal treatment at every oil change.

 

The reason why i cruise at speeds between 70-80 km/hr.... Keep the engine rev below 3000 rpm. And also to prevent my turbo unit from kicking in.

 

My former cars:-

Honda Accord - Best mileage - 15.2 km/l

Renault Kangoo - Diesel - 16.6 km/l

Many thanks for sharing with us. I believe it is a plus for hypermiling if the car can use the cheaper petrol at the same time. My does not adapt well to Octane 92, so I use Octane 95 most of the time (14.5-15.6km/L)

[Hypermiler]

I think I have mentioned this tip before. It is most often overlook.

 

Always ensure that your car or motorbike battery is in tip top condition... i.e. it is fully charged.

 

I know it's not possible for highrise residence to do this.... but for those who stay in landed properties, charge your batteries overnight when you return from work.

 

You can buy the charger from auto shops. Price varies brand to brand, feature to feature.

 

It's good if the charger has an auto function. It will allow your battery to switch to "float" when it is fully charged.

 

There is a notable difference in FC driving around with a fully charge battery than one that is lacking.

 

Other than that, the most obvious tip is to inflate your tyres above the usual. Mine is always just 10% to 15% under the maximum allowable pressure.