Genie47 1st Gear April 17, 2006 Share April 17, 2006 No. Just use the mineral oil and run. No need to flush then. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennisk Clutched April 21, 2006 Author Share April 21, 2006 just got back my car today damage done was = $2300 engine filled with 20W50 mineral(recommended by the mechanics) what shouldn't i do for running in period? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyberet Neutral Newbie April 21, 2006 Share April 21, 2006 erm.. ultra thick oil, so maybe in the morning, you should drive gently in the beginning for the oil to warm up abit before u lut. other than that, drive as per normal Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altivo 3rd Gear April 21, 2006 Share April 21, 2006 Hopefully you piston rods are not bend. Should be carefull with CAI setup, do not allow 100% suction to inlet air tube. Proposely make it leak to prevent from sucking water when you inlet pipe is submerged in water. Another thing is use big pipe for CAI inlet pipe. agreed with the CAI.. poke some holes in the tube... It would be like you trying to suck water thru a straw with holes... no matter how hard u suck, the water just won't come up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minicooper Neutral Newbie April 21, 2006 Share April 21, 2006 dun rev ur car... especially no more Initial-D for u for at least 2 months lor, at express way no more in the 1st lane. haha! good to hear tt ur car is done up... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennisk Clutched April 22, 2006 Author Share April 22, 2006 now you can do your initial-D with your MOMO steering... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennisk Clutched April 22, 2006 Author Share April 22, 2006 maybe gonna flush after 500km...then go for 10W40 mineral... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennisk Clutched April 30, 2006 Author Share April 30, 2006 After i overhaul the engine, the engine is hotter . water temp also goes up .... will changing of higher pressure radiator cap help? (1.3 Silvers) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simonleng Neutral Newbie April 30, 2006 Share April 30, 2006 my fellow mazdarian,glad to hear ur car had survive the near drown incident. so is ur cai tube still in ur car? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennisk Clutched April 30, 2006 Author Share April 30, 2006 yup...i intend to remove it...but havent' go and buy CAI tube to replace yet...any idea 1.3 radiator cap will help my water temp go lower? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BMW320i Neutral Newbie April 30, 2006 Share April 30, 2006 (edited) This is what happen when you don't take threads like this seriously. http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/Aftermarke...f_car_P1177490/ If you are going to use the Ram Air concept with a pipe at the bumper, its only a matter of time before something terrible starts to happen. Full race prep track cars can afford to do that because the track has strict regulations on clearing FOD. Our Govt. "maintained" roads don't give a hoot if a dead cat was lying in the middle of the road. So now you see why this set up is not feasible, especially.... in a country like Singapore where it rains like nobody's business. Should've considered the consequences before you carry out such a mod... You'll need to draw a fine line between road and track set up. Unless your running major mods, huge turbos, heat shield everywhere and inlet, engine bay temps still reads rather high, than maybe this set up may help. But honestly its about time you question whether there is a need for a mod and whether or not its even beneficial in the first place. I apologise if I sound offensive. But I reckon this incident is a warning for you to do something about it. Edited April 30, 2006 by BMW320i Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennisk Clutched April 30, 2006 Author Share April 30, 2006 (edited) i appreciate your piece of advise... actually my CAI is not consider low compare to some...mine is pretty high....what happen is that i drove into a flood that is darn high.... Edited April 30, 2006 by Dennisk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyberet Neutral Newbie April 30, 2006 Share April 30, 2006 (edited) by increasing pressure, u r increasing the wear and tear of your tubes, cooling system, possible leaks, increase boiling point etc.. if it wasn't designed for it.. u mention increase temp? by guage? from how much to how much? maybe thats the reason why your FC so bad, temp last time was too cold, thus run rich.. now hotter better maybe the mech drain the coolant and didn't fill up with the correct mixture of coolant/water? Edited April 30, 2006 by Cyberet Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennisk Clutched April 30, 2006 Author Share April 30, 2006 last time range from 92-96....now 98-100... seems that mechanic only put in water only... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garlic 1st Gear April 30, 2006 Share April 30, 2006 Water only? Is the liquid in your coolant reservoir green? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyberet Neutral Newbie April 30, 2006 Share April 30, 2006 (edited) if only water.. then thats a possible reason, our 323 coolant capacity is 6litres, so drain out, and top up with 3L of coolant, 3L of distilled water Edited April 30, 2006 by Cyberet Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennisk Clutched April 30, 2006 Author Share April 30, 2006 Nope...water only... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennisk Clutched April 30, 2006 Author Share April 30, 2006 Engine ICE (www.cyclelogic.cc) it's a hi-performance coolant. it says that : DO NOT ADD WATER. it's a premixed with deionized Water but my coolant capacity is 6L. this bottle is only 1.89L. one bottle cost $39.90 i bought only 1 bottle. i bought this at autobacs... ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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