Installing of fuse box in engine compartment

[Elfenstar]

errm whats teh difference between an agu and maxi fuse.

also hella has circuit breakers that replace the blade fuses in cars. Any idea if they're good??

[Wankie]

u gotta ask kwongwing, i've blown my own fuse but not my car's fuses

 

most times i trust my installer, he tell me good enough i don't ask anymore.

[Darkness]

I guess it is a design issue basically. Different tolerance levels etc. Apprantly certain types of fuses are only available in certain amp ranges.

 

Not sure wat are blade fuses..but hella as a brand is rather famous so i assume it should be good hee hee. Just a guess.

[Hyun]

after reading this i'm appalled. my setup's wrong then, without a front fuse. and i appreciate why - if that wire shorts after coming out from the battery, during a car accident or however it happens, it connects the positive terminal to the grounded car body and zap, there goes a fire. no doubt about it.

 

die ... i'll need to mount that ANL fuse ASAP, and as u mentioned, that silly 4-gauge in-out fusebox has a 150A fuse, and i can't find 120A in sim lim. maybe go down try again soon.

 

anyone got any idea about mounting that 4-gauge-in-4-gauge-out fusebox at the battery area? my installer said must custom bracket etc otherwise the whole thing even if u tape it down isn't secure ... so most of yours are screwed and anchored down?

[Darkness]

ya bro but for now to be safe u can get a 100A if u cannot get a 120A (i assume fuses are cheap?)

 

But then again can anyone verify the table on the website. This guy's webby rather famous see it on many ICE forums. But maybe he made a mistake?

 

From my understanding the fuses we add are to protect the wire itself rather than the electronic equipment itself. Since the amp etc have their own internal fuse.

[Kwongwing]

ANL fuse - biggest I have been able to find is 30A nia. Should be sufficient for most applications including your amp.

 

For the sub powering my sub - manual recommends a 200A fuse, I am using a resettable circuit breaker rated at 60A - no problems so far.

 

Anything that is to be placed/installed in the car engine compartment should be securely tied down either by way of brackets, and/or heat resistant cable ties, etc.

[Wankie]

OT..

 

you back in town liao boss? need to find one day return your amp

[Hyun]

gotcha. what's the price of a resettable circuit breaker? since installers dun wanna touch my fuse box, i may have to "buy one from them" in order for them to install it for me, or pay whatever they want for installation of mine.

 

then there's the other thing about grounding. some even mentioned that if u ground the points wrong, u could lose fuel consumption. perhaps some form of electricity leak causing the car to have to compensate by running the engine to overcome this loss of current - hence translating to poorer fuel consumption.

 

my boot components are grounded to my rear seat metal, but i haven't grounded the front components yet ... lemme surf that useful webpage given by Darkness - maybe he has something on grounding.

[Kwongwing]

See ya tonite - u can keep the amp for me first, no hurry my end - can work or not?

[Kwongwing]

The one that is connected to my sub-amp at my car's rear was about $80 i tink!

 

I remember that I have another circuit breaker of a bigger ampere capacity in the car engine compartment also which is connected directly to the battery - before the 0 gauge cables runs from that to the rear of my car's distribution box - can't remember the rating or price of that though.

 

As for grounding, all grounding for ICE is any convenient point - whether affects FC or not, when you have components running definitely affect FC liao.

 

As for grounding proper, for purposes of performance and/or FC, that's a different story altogether. Do a search on the other threads for more information on that aspect and voltage stabilizers, etc.

[Wankie]

can work boss, but your amp sound very 'lazy' leh even when compared to my integrated maybe i connect salah

[Kwongwing]

Ooi ... u keep the amp first. I go over to yr place to try out some other day, but u got warm up the amp or not. Been in storage sometime liao, so need at least abt 15 minutes to warm up first.

[Wankie]

maybe never warm up enough i try again

[Kwongwing]

You go molest my amp a bit more and warm it up even more lol

Coming tonite?

[Wankie]

i'll leave that to headshok, i'm not interested in transistors & pcb's

[Yeobh]

Fuse box should eb place as near as possible to the power output source so that in any event of high amp draw exceeding the norm, the fuse will blow before any futher damage is done to the harness and component connected post fuse

[Hyun]

how about distribution box. how many power outlets do people sometimes have? i'd like to get one which has enough outputs so next time need 1 or 2 more also not wasted.

 

currently only 1 output to 1 amp.

eventually, MIGHT get 2nd amp, so need 1 output.

other stuff like capacitors etc, i donno what they're for so no idea whether need to leave an output for them or not.

i'll NEVER have 3 amps, so at most 2 outputs for amps only.

 

so getting a distrib with 1 in and 4 out is more than enough, it seems?

 

i see other ways of tapping power - not thru distrib box but thru connecting tap wire, with a fuse, for smaller-gauge outputs to crossovers etc. also not familiar with whether i'll need these in future or not.

[Headshok]

yoyo, the number of distrubution outlets depends on how many amps u wanna plug in lor.. heheh..

 

for you, SHOULD you ever consider a monoblk (i stilll got a phoenix gold 600 watt at the warehouse, and one more 1200 monoblk), for example, a phoenix gold one, u might wanna get a 3 output one,as your amp has dual power inputs. this way,u can run ur entire setup optimal.

 

as for capacitors, no need to worry about it as it does not affect the number of outputs.

 

heheh..

 

cheers!