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Swiftie Overheat!


Yc86
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diyed my hoses yesterday, cos they were apparently leaking but somehow solved themselves over time. was leaking recently again so decided to change.

 

drained out the coolant, was about 2L.. but when i tried to put back, only can fit in 1L.. why?

i made sure visually there were no kinks or bends, everything was the right way.

 

today when i was driving to sch, the water temp on the dashboard shot up to almost red.. my other water temp gauge also shot up..

stopped by the road and i realised... i didn't tighten the hose going from the top of the radiator into the engine [furious]

 

coolant was leaking from the engine side and steam was comin out. tightened it with a 10c coin.. but still the temp was rising.

 

when i reached sch, found my flat head and screwed the hose clip tight... after starting the engine... the temperature still rose up quite quickly to red.

 

coolant reservoir is still full..

 

weird things is, when i shut down the engine.. the water temp reading on my gauge fell down quite quickly... usually it would just hang on there but today it dropped really fast

 

how how?? the car is still in sch n i can't get back home [bigcry]

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could it be leakage...or fan spoilt?

 

another possibility is the water pump kaput....never cooled the engine.

 

from ur description steam coming out...seems like not enuff coolant....hence the remain coolant..some become steam..

 

if really cannot..get tow truck bro sweatdrop.gif

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yeah... problem solved apparently.

opened up the raditor cap n saw no coolant inside. topped up the left-over from yesterday back inside and voila.. the amount was just nice

 

no more overheat probs for now, managed to reach home and swap car to come back to sch [lipsrsealed]

 

dunno why yesterday though after the job i started the engine to warm up.. the coolant was sstill full n can't top up..

 

[hur][hur]

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yah... u're right, not enough coolant.

 

duno why i try to force feed it yesterday but it kept vomiting out... full le

 

[hur]

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Got your experience before.

Your radiator leak some where. Go to workshop to find out & get it repair...

Coolant sometime can heal minor crack at the radiator... but as the crack expand, it will leak.

Radiator cap also affect... You may replace the radiator cap for a try...

Edited by Ncss
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actually when u change drained and change new coolant,

u might see its full but its not....

u got to let the engine run for a few mins with the radiator cap removed....

then after pour some coolant in....

to make sure its really full....

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u need to press accel which helps to move the water pump...from there..the coolant moves, then u can top up the remain coolant wink.gif....

 

looks like ur water pump not very efficient...maybe some rust liao...so i forsee still can last a short while.

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now ur next thing to do is to see got leakage or not..if not..shd be water pump not in good condition...water pump is the one that drives the coolant around the engine block and back to radiator

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Yup...I believe that's the problem too.

 

Need to start engine idle a while and you'll see the coolant flush down when the valve opened...

 

Then need to top up full to the brim....

 

Glad is all right now...

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what I did previously to my coe corolla was to press the coolant/radiator rubber pipe hard a few time to let the air/bubble out.After some good solid 'pressing' you should see the fluid disappear into the radiator thus allowing you to pour the remaining fluid in.

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i did start the engine after filling up, but with the cap closed. after 5 mins, went to check n when opened cap the coolant spilled out.

 

okiez... thanks ppl

at least learnt something from this.. another false alarm [sweatdrop]

 

first time drain radiator completely [nod]

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oi....

 

when u top up the coolant.......the coolant level will drop when u rev the engine, but will come back up when engine idle.

 

dun die die top up the coolant when revving the engine....no point....if too much will oso spill out to the reserve tank.

 

basically to top up coolant,

 

1. top up coolant in radiator

2. start engine, let idle

3. check coolant level in the radiator, top up (by right should have drop down quite a lot)

4. squeeze the radiator top rubber hose to pump out excess air, top up if required.

5. rev engine. coolant level should drop down, but not disappear.

6. release throttle, coolant should raise up again, but not spillover.

7. when u rev the engine then let go, and your coolant gushes out or u get a fountain, bad. likely head gasket leak.

8. also check water pump area for water stain, may indicate worn water pump.

9. also check radiator for water stain.

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  Quote
i did start the engine after filling up, but with the cap closed. after 5 mins, went to check n when opened cap the coolant spilled out.

 

okiez... thanks ppl

at least learnt something from this.. another false alarm [sweatdrop]

 

first time drain radiator completely [nod]

Don't know abt you case, but when u drain the coolant and replenish with new coolant. First thing u shd leave the radiator cap open (can see the level) and starts the engine, after a while the themostat will open amd let coolant pass through the engine block, at this time the coolant level will drop, then u top up abt .7 - 1 litre of additional coolant. Do not depend on the reservoir to ck the actual level after coolant change.

The purpose of the themostat is to let the engine warm up b4 circulating the coolant inside the engine. hope your cyl head is not warped, or else u might need to do a top overhaul. One more thing, do not rev the engine, when u release the throttle, coolant will pour out.

Edited by Sky8807
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Everyone missed the most important bit. what u didn't do was bleed the coolant.

 

The reason why you could top up less than u released, is because the engine was cold and the thermostat was closed preventing coolant from entering the engine. Thats why the mech rams the accelerator, to get the engine up to temp quickly so the thermostat will open.

 

What i like doing is have the car on an incline with the front higher then rev the engine a bit then let it idle, and repeat it till i stop seeing bubbles come up. Front higher so that the air bubble swill come out easier (dun forget that the rad cap should be open).

 

There is actually a bleeder valve on the engine itself, but most mechs don't use it as it will get hot and then its a pain to tighten it (the pressing of the top rad hose is to remove air from the top hose).

 

I suggest you have the car on an incline and do as i said as i'm sure that unless u had a mech fix it, there will still be pockets of air in the engines cooling system. This will lead to hot hotspots and a possible blown head gasket.

 

If you need any help let me know via pm as i'm currently in sg and can come down to help you bleed it.

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