Air-con problem,tappet problem!!!!

[Elfenstar]

I only used to go to espace so i can only recommend them.

 

I guess the rest of our bro's can recommend a better workshop if any.

 

Try doing an oil flush then running a Xw50 and above oil for abt 5000kms then swap back to your regular oil and see if it helps. You can also try using a "lifter free" treatment, I know nulon has them. hopefully its just air/gunk in the hydraulics and not caused by mechnical issues.

 

It won't affect the performance quickly, but over time it will as the cam lobes will start to wear out much quicker.

Edited November 17, 2005 by Elfenstar

[Yeobh]

Click,http://www.aep.bigstep.com/clik1.htm on tappet adjusting with special clikadjust tool

 

Hope this helps

[Jlim]

wah i guess amatuer like me should not attempt

[Jlim]

  Quote

"Tak tak tak tak tak tak tak tak tak tak tak tak tak"

 

mine goes tiak tiak tiak tiak tiak tiak tiak tiak....... same or not?!

[Yeobh]

Yes I suggest you keep away from adjusting, to carry out this task you will need to have a understanding of engine operating cycle.

Just to give you brief idea - for most of the 4 cylinder 4 cycle engines the firing order can be 1342 that means no.1 cylinder will fire follow by cylinder 3 and so on. The crankshaft are desinged ,for balancing purpose, with both piston 1 and 4 moving upward at the same time and piston 3 & 2 moving downward and vice versa.Piston 1 will be on compression cycle and the other will be on ehxaust cycle.

To do tappet adjustment on no.1 cylinder, you need to crank the engine manually ( remove all the spark plugs so that it is easy on your hands and muscles)until the no.1 piston is on top dead centre ( end of compression cycle) where both the exhaust and rocker arms are fully closed and the rocker arms are free from the spring tension. From here you insert the feeler gauge (set to the clearance allowed and feel the drag ) and make the necessary adjustment at the other end of the rocker arm's adjusting screw. No.4 piston is also at the top dead centre where the exhaust is about to close and the and intake valve just open ( trade jagon - the valve are on the rock). The whole process is repeated all over again for no 2 , 3 and 4.

For more more advance engines, adjustment is via adding shims and for some they compensate the cleanrance by using hydraulic actualled rocker arm pushers

[Jigc]

yeo,

 

i'm thinking, is it easy to turn the crank shaft manually??

 

this is a necessary step when v change the timing belt and valve lash adjustment.

i'm thinking of this way, do u think it is feasible?

-jack up ur front wheel

-engage gear to 5th gear

-rotate the wheel manually will turn the crank shaft

 

wheel rotate = drive shaft rotate = differential rotate = transmission gears rotate (gear engage) = clutch + flywhell rotate = crankshaft rotate

 

sound logic?

 

jigc

[Yeobh]

Remove all the spark plugs - turn the crankshaft pulley via the nut with a socket and long ratchet. For safety reasons ( have witness mechanics lossing thier fingers )DO NOT crank the engine. Moreover you need to be very precise in getting the pisotn at TDC - and this can only be carried out by manually turning the crankshaft forward and backward ( to check the rocker arm is 100% on the rock) to determine whether the piston is 100% at the TDC.

Using a TDC whistle or indicator is much more professional and time saving method

Edited November 19, 2005 by Yeobh

[Jlim]

Ouch.. u actually witnessed the accident?!

[Pisces69]

Ahhh..... if "Tiak Tiak Tiak" then cud be your valve stems r cracked.