Jump to content

Nissan Teana Experience


Kalmath
 Share

Recommended Posts

 

yup, quite surprised too.

That's for Elgrand, perhaps agent absorb abit.

For Estima, the take in price is lesser at 58k.

 

so..back to key question, Estima or Elgrand?hahah...

 

I think Estima has got a more engaging drive than Elgrand but Elgrand more spacious.

 

If both are 2.4 then you are definitely going to miss Teana's V6, at least for a while.

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Thanks for your adv.

 

1. Mountings - $360??? I was quoted complete set $600!!!

 

2. Grounding does help, at least in all my previous rides. My mechanic was surprised that my cefiro battery can last 1.5-2yrs and at 220k mileage, all my ignition coils were original since day 1. Am just wondering if modern cars these days would have a better grounding done.

 

3. Will check out Unique, thanks!

 

4. I would like to check whether the CVT will jerks at low rpm. I realised that when I need to tap on accelerator and brake continuously, the car quite jerky and sometimes like jerking forward. This happen mostly when I maneuver in the carpark slowly and when during heavy traffic. Is it the characteristics of the CVT that I've not got used to it yet or something not right?

 

I checked the M&R history with TCM since she is serviced by them from previous owners. Apart from the usual wear & tear items, no major parts i.e. radiator, mountings, suspension, driveshafts, wheel bearings etc, been replaced yet! Looks like all these will fall on me liao!

$600 if inclusive of gearbox mounting and installation, then it is reasonable as my $360 quote from Lesun has not factored in GST, gearbox mounting and labour charges,

 

My batteries usually last 2 yrs on average without any grounding.

 

I have been experiencing a very occasional CVT jerk when you slow down especially in slow traffic and suddenly press on the accelerator before the car comes to a stop, right from day one but this is normal. About a year ago I started experiencing the car jerking and moving forward when you slow down and about to come to a stop but it has dissapeared perhaps because I adapted to it by adjusting my driving style by taking my foot off from the brake for a split second before stepping on it again when it is about to stop. I am ok with such minor and tear which is to be expected and hope no major problems crop up with the CVT gearbox till I scrap the car. Your description sounds a mixture of a characterictic of the CVT as well as some wear and tear setting in especially if it happens often.

 

Not all major parts like radiator, wheel bearings, driveshafts will need to be changed during the 10 yr lifespan. Depends on how you maintain the car and some luck. If you intend to keep the car for at least 3 more years, suggest you at least change the mountings and shock absorbers. The rest only when there are signs of obvious or impending breakdowns and keep your fingers crossed.

Edited by Nav14
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I think Estima has got a more engaging drive than Elgrand but Elgrand more spacious.

 

If both are 2.4 then you are definitely going to miss Teana's V6, at least for a while.

 

V6 gonna be missed, forever...

don't think any 2+litres car gonna carry V6 anymore..sighs..

 

hard choice to whether capitalised my teana right now since trade in is still high..=/

Link to post
Share on other sites

$600 if inclusive of gearbox mounting and installation, then it is reasonable as my $360 quote from Lesun has not factored in GST, gearbox mounting and labour charges,

 

My batteries usually last 2 yrs on average without any grounding.

 

I have been experiencing a very occasional CVT jerk when you slow down especially in slow traffic and suddenly press on the accelerator before the car comes to a stop, right from day one but this is normal. About a year ago I started experiencing the car jerking and moving forward when you slow down and about to come to a stop but it has dissapeared perhaps because I adapted to it by adjusting my driving style by taking my foot off from the brake for a split second before stepping on it again when it is about to stop. I am ok with such minor and tear which is to be expected and hope no major problems crop up with the CVT gearbox till I scrap the car. Your description sounds a mixture of a characterictic of the CVT as well as some wear and tear setting in especially if it happens often.

 

Not all major parts like radiator, wheel bearings, driveshafts will need to be changed during the 10 yr lifespan. Depends on how you maintain the car and some luck. If you intend to keep the car for at least 3 more years, suggest you at least change the mountings and shock absorbers. The rest only when there are signs of obvious or impending breakdowns and keep your fingers crossed.

No, $600 only on parts. Labour probably 200-300.

 

So So I guess the jerk is quite normal just the matter of handling it. ATF oil renewal was done 10k ago.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi all.

My dad just bought a 09 Teana. After doing the checking the best we could with a Mech as well as from the resale car showroom.

Drove up to Penang during the CNY and back.

Drive is stable and smooth compared to camry (previous car).

Half a tank to KL and another half tank to Penang.

Easy to over take and powers comes from mid range.

Small down side is the compartment and boot space compared to the camry.

Great for 4 pax but little pack for 5 pax with 90% full load in boot.

Nice comfort and great ride drive!

 

Anyone knows more about the ICY setting and Reset in the menu options?

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

It just goes to show a little bit of knowledge is dangerous.

 

The trouble with forums is anyone can give advice and not

 

all advice is backed with knowledge.

 

Grounding is effective and manufacturers do include it

 

in their cars. Seeing is believing so please see the picture

 

of a Skoda with the original grounding from the manufacturer.

 

So why don't all manufacturers include it? Simple its a cost

 

and putting it in will reduce their profits not that it is a gimmick.

 

:D

 

 

Manufacturers need to be shot (except Skoda provided it is not aftermarket) for spending billions on R&D trying to make their cars more superior than their competitors but opt to save $10 (manufacturers cost in bulk) for something so effective and useful?

 

Ask yourself the above question , exercise some basic logical thinking, do some basic google search on the proven /unproven benefits of grounding and you will know whether it is a gimmick or not .

 

Blind faith is more dangerous than little bit of knowledge.

 

But then again blind faith is needed to keep the economy going and some people's livelihoods depend on such gimmicks .

 

We need a certain percentage of s--ckers for everyone else's benefit.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

Manufacturers need to be shot (except Skoda provided it is not aftermarket) for spending billions on R&D trying to make their cars more superior than their competitors but opt to save $10 (manufacturers cost in bulk) for something so effective and useful?

 

Ask yourself the above question , exercise some basic logical thinking, do some basic google search on the proven /unproven benefits of grounding and you will know whether it is a gimmick or not .

 

Blind faith is more dangerous than little bit of knowledge.

 

But then again blind faith is needed to keep the economy going and some people's livelihoods depend on such gimmicks .

 

We need a certain percentage of s--ckers for everyone else's benefit.

 

If you think gounding is for suckers then remove the grounding

 

in your car. To see the effects of grounding, ground to the positive

 

terminal of your battery and see what happens to your car.

 

:D

  • Praise 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Here's a short review:

Did a servicing, engine oil flush, 4 wheel alignment n balancing, changed leaking radiator hose, mountings n plugs n took the car up north to Melaka over the weekend. The car is quite stable given the firmer suspension, including a 12km stretch of dirt pave to UK farm @ Kluang.. The CVT response is indeed slower and it's loud. In fact it over-shadowed the roar of the smooth V6 engine. Maybe we could a little more sound proofing here. Did about 10.5km/L @ 130km/h average, 90% HW with terrible jam at both Melaka town and causeway. The kick comes at about 4,000rpm. I would say that the overall ride was comfortable but not as comfortable as Cefiro.

Min. vibration after the mountings changed.

Edited by oceanmist73
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

If you think gounding is for suckers then remove the grounding

 

in your car. To see the effects of grounding, ground to the positive

 

terminal of your battery and see what happens to your car.

 

:D

 

I agree with Nav14, the factory cost for additional groundings is really low. Even it the maker topped it up another $100 to the OMV, buyer will not even see the difference.

 

Grounding is important and the question here is how much more grounding is necessary. Also do note that ours are not heavily modded cars. Are modern cars grounding sufficient?

 

IMO, you comments above is a little bit unnecessary. Like we all know eating is important, but the question is how much to eat. Not asking someone to shove the food up the ass.... lol... No offence.... =)

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I agree with Nav14, the factory cost for additional groundings is really low. Even it the maker topped it up another $100 to the OMV, buyer will not even see the difference.

 

Grounding is important and the question here is how much more grounding is necessary. Also do note that ours are not heavily modded cars. Are modern cars grounding sufficient?

 

IMO, you comments above is a little bit unnecessary. Like we all know eating is important, but the question is how much to eat. Not asking someone to shove the food up the ass.... lol... No offence.... =)

 

Actually you agree with me since you wrote Grounding is important

 

Nav14 wrote grounding is unproven benefits of grounding and

a gimmick.

 

As for shoving food up the ass I never discuss anything that I have absolutely

 

no knowledge of. So you must have a lot of knowledge of / or experience of this? Or are you just like

 

Nav14 who likes to discuss things he has no knowledge of.

 

I suggest you read the very informative post below. If grounding is a waste of money I think that

 

poster would not have put it in all his ride. Feel free to argue with him if he has wasted his

 

money as grounding is not useful.

 

2. Grounding does help, at least in all my previous rides. My mechanic was surprised that my cefiro battery can last 1.5-2yrs and at 220k mileage, all my ignition coils were original since day 1.

 

 

 

Manufacturers need to be shot (except Skoda provided it is not aftermarket) for spending billions on R&D trying to make their cars more superior than their competitors but opt to save $10 (manufacturers cost in bulk) for something so effective and useful?

 

Ask yourself the above question , exercise some basic logical thinking, do some basic google search on the proven / unproven benefits of grounding and you will know whether it is a gimmick or not .

 

Blind faith is more dangerous than little bit of knowledge.

 

But then again blind faith is needed to keep the economy going and some people's livelihoods depend on such gimmicks .

 

We need a certain percentage of s--ckers for everyone else's benefit.

 

 

 

Thanks for your adv.

 

1. Mountings - $360??? I was quoted complete set $600!!!

 

2. Grounding does help, at least in all my previous rides. My mechanic was surprised that my cefiro battery can last 1.5-2yrs and at 220k mileage, all my ignition coils were original since day 1. Am just wondering if modern cars these days would have a better grounding done.

 

3. Will check out Unique, thanks!

 

4. I would like to check whether the CVT will jerks at low rpm. I realised that when I need to tap on accelerator and brake continuously, the car quite jerky and sometimes like jerking forward. This happen mostly when I maneuver in the carpark slowly and when during heavy traffic. Is it the characteristics of the CVT that I've not got used to it yet or something not right?

 

I checked the M&R history with TCM since she is serviced by them from previous owners. Apart from the usual wear & tear items, no major parts i.e. radiator, mountings, suspension, driveshafts, wheel bearings etc, been replaced yet! Looks like all these will fall on me liao!

 

:D

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think there's no conclusive proof that grounding is good or helpful in anyway. Grounding only affects the -ve terminal. As far as electrical current is concerned, both +ve and -ve needs to be equally good to carry a good amount of current, and most of this is happening within the engine compartment anyway.

 

When I was at a classic car race a few cars actually ran purely on battery without an alternator to reduce load on the engine. There was no fancy grounding or anything, just two fat wires to the main fusebox. These are proper classic race cars, mind you. If grounding made any difference then I would have seen wires all over the engine compartment, but there's just wires at where they are supposed to be, and no 5 point leads going all over the chassis.

 

Battery lasting 1.5-2 yrs is nothing to shout about. Most of my cars have batteries lasting more than 4 years on average. Only Jap cars have short life span -- due to the heat from the engine and has nothing to do with grounding.

 

For those who fiddle with ICE then grounding may be of help to the quality of the audio. But I think it is more important to have a voltage rectifier + capacitor to smooth out the irregular voltage from the alternator. But this difference is not noticeable to the non-audiophiles blasting techno and Jason Maraz.

 

FYI I had grounding and a vstab in my wife's old Hyundai Verna. We bought it and it came that way. I tore it out and sold it for $30 or $20, can't remember. It made absolutely no difference to FC, performance, audio (stock -- sounds like crap anyway).

 

I would say to each his own. Your money, your car. Decide on where you want to spend it.

Edited by Detach8
  • Praise 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

If you think gounding is for suckers then remove the grounding

 

in your car. To see the effects of grounding, ground to the positive

 

terminal of your battery and see what happens to your car.

 

:D

 

What do you mean by "ground to the positive terminal"?

 

Maybe you should read up a little on some fundamentals of electricity before spewing rubbish on the Internet. It only reflects badly on you.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

What do you mean by "ground to the positive terminal"?

 

Maybe you should read up a little on some fundamentals of electricity before spewing rubbish on the Internet. It only reflects badly on you.

 

Please read my post properly.

 

I am saying grounding works and is very important.

 

For people who says gounding does not work

 

and is a gimmick I am saying please ground to the positive

 

instead of the negative to see the effects of grounding.

 

I fully understand grounding should be to the neagtive terminal.

 

However if people say grounding is useless and has no effects

 

I am saying please ground to the positive and you will see the effects

 

:D

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Please read my post properly.

 

I am saying grounding works and is very important.

 

For people who says gounding does not work

 

and is a gimmick I am saying please ground to the positive

 

instead of the negative to see the effects of grounding.

 

I fully understand grounding should be to the neagtive terminal.

 

However if people say grounding is useless and has no effects

 

I am saying please ground to the positive and you will see the effects

 

:D

 

You are talking cock? Maybe let me educate you... that's not called grounding. That's called shorting. I can give you a regular wire and ask you to touch the -ve to +ve, and you'll see the effects for yourself. It has nothing to do with whether additional grounding got use or not. You can short your battery with one wire, two wires, three wires, or one big fat wire. It'll still short.

 

Grounding is about getting more current to pass through the battery via the car chassis, which I am trying to say is pointless because the +ve end of the battery is not upsized/improved. The car is *ALREADY* grounded. What people do is add *MORE* grounding, and the question is if it makes a difference or not.

 

For those with custom ICE then this makes sense because usually the amplifier has a separate +ve line directly connected to the battery, but its -ve terminal is still attached to the chassis. The wires that are used for the original grounding of the vehicle may not be able to carry that much current. Some amps can draw as much as 600W -- that's 50A @ 12V, so additional grounding to the chassis may help carry this extra current.

 

The big current draw in a vehicle is usually just the starter motor (200-300A). And that is going via the thick black wire already connected to the battery. Auxiliary electronics like interior lights and stock radio don't usually draw more than 20A. Even regular halogen bulbs for headlights, 2 x 55W = 9A @ 12V.

 

Since most ICE amps are usually installed at the back in the boot, and the battery is in front in the engine compartment, it is a long way for high current to go down the chassis. Grounding may help, but I think if you are any smarter you would wire an additional capacitor near the amp to soak up the excess current demand because the amp does not always draw 600W continuously.

 

In some old cars the terminal where the battery grounds can get dirty and rusted, and this leads to a poor ground. What aftermarket grounding simply does is to give it multiple points to ground to around the chassis so that in event one point is weak, the electricity simply flows in the direction of least resistance. The risk here is that if your main ground cable fails, your teeny weeny aftermarket crappy shit ground cables will simply melt when you crank your car.

Edited by Detach8
Link to post
Share on other sites

 

You are talking cock? Maybe let me educate you... that's not called grounding. That's called shorting. I can give you a regular wire and ask you to touch the -ve to +ve, and you'll see the effects for yourself. It has nothing to do with whether additional grounding got use or not. You can short your battery with one wire, two wires, three wires, or one big fat wire. It'll still short.

 

Grounding is about getting more current to pass through the battery via the car chassis, which I am trying to say is pointless because the +ve end of the battery is not upsized/improved. For those with custom ICE then this makes sense because usually the amplifier has a separate +ve line directly connected to the battery, but its -ve terminal is still attached to the chassis. The wires that are used for the original grounding of the vehicle may not be able to carry that much current. Some amps can draw as much as 600W -- that's 50A @ 12V, so additional grounding to the chassis will help carry this extra current demand.

 

The big current draw in a vehicle is usually just the starter motor (200-300A). And that is going via the thick black wire already connected to the battery. Auxiliary electronics like interior lights and stock radio don't usually draw more than 20A. And since most ICE amps are usually installed at the back in the boot, and the battery is in front in the engine compartment, this is a long way for high current to go down the chassis. In some old cars the terminal where the battery grounds can get dirty and rusted, and this leads to a poor ground, and what aftermarket grounding simply does is to give it multiple points to ground to around the chassis so that in event one point is weak, the electricity simply flows in the direction of least resistance. The risk here is that if your main ground cable fails, your teeny weeny aftermarket crappy shit ground cables will simply melt.

 

I now understand where you are coming from.

 

I am not asking to take a wire and connecting the +ve to the -ve.

 

You are right, this is called shorting and I am not talking about shorting.

 

I am talking about grounding. Connecting the grounding cable from the points

 

of the car body to the -ve terminal of the battery is the correct thing to do.

 

However if people do not believe grounding works I am saying just connect

 

the points of the car body to the +ve terminal of the battery.

 

As for "In some old cars the terminal where the battery grounds can get dirty and rusted, and this leads to a poor ground, and what aftermarket grounding simply does is to give it multiple points to ground to around the chassis so that in event one point is weak." I completely agree with you. I drive an old car and as time passes the grounds will get dirty and rusted and that's why I added grounding for the multiple points.

 

Thank you for your warning about the additional grounding cables . Lucky for me I don't drive a Skoda but if what you say is true then maybe all the Skoda owners should remove the extra grounding or they face the risk of all of it melting. I am sorry I cannot endorse what you say as I do not have any knowledge that this is true. But since you believe yourself to be an expert as you want to "educate" me, other people can believe you if they want to.

 

:D

post-23002-0-91167600-1426577725.jpg

  • Praise 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Let's take this discussion off a Nissan Teana thread to here:

 

http://www.mycarforum.com/topic/2648406-grounding-vs-voltage-stabalizing/page-4


 

I now understand where you are coming from.

 

I am not asking to take a wire and connecting the +ve to the -ve.

 

You are right, this is called shorting and I am not talking about shorting.

 

I am talking about grounding. Connecting the grounding cable from the points

 

of the car body to the -ve terminal of the battery is the correct thing to do.

 

However if people do not believe grounding works I am saying just connect

 

the points of the car body to the +ve terminal of the battery.

 

As for "In some old cars the terminal where the battery grounds can get dirty and rusted, and this leads to a poor ground, and what aftermarket grounding simply does is to give it multiple points to ground to around the chassis so that in event one point is weak." I completely agree with you. I drive an old car and as time passes the grounds will get dirty and rusted and that's why I added grounding for the multiple points.

 

Thank you for your warning about the additional grounding cables . Lucky for me I don't drive a Skoda but if what you say is true then maybe all the Skoda owners should remove the extra grounding or they face the risk of all of it melting. I am sorry I cannot endorse what you say as I do not have any knowledge that this is true. But since you believe yourself to be an expert as you want to "educate" me, other people can believe you if they want to.

 

:D

 

Those Skoda ground cables looks good, i.e. they are thick enough to carry current. A lot of aftermarket grounding cables are really poor. Let's take this to the other thread. Thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Actually you agree with me since you wrote Grounding is important

 

Nav14 wrote grounding is unproven benefits of grounding and

a gimmick.

 

As for shoving food up the ass I never discuss anything that I have absolutely

 

no knowledge of. So you must have a lot of knowledge of / or experience of this? Or are you just like

 

Nav14 who likes to discuss things he has no knowledge of.

 

I suggest you read the very informative post below. If grounding is a waste of money I think that

 

poster would not have put it in all his ride. Feel free to argue with him if he has wasted his

 

money as grounding is not useful.

 

2. Grounding does help, at least in all my previous rides. My mechanic was surprised that my cefiro battery can last 1.5-2yrs and at 220k mileage, all my ignition coils were original since day 1.

 

 

 

 

:D

Jamesc

 

My Panasonic car battery lasted 4 years without any grounding. Other batteries on average lasted 2 - 2.5 yrs without any grounding.So why don't you use my example in your arguments as well just like you are highlighting in bold and red above for one person where the mechanic was surprised that his battery lasted 2 yrs and attributed it to the grounding.

 

The world economy would be much more vibrant if everyone was as myopic as you. Manufacturers would be producing more useless stuff to sell to people like Jamesc.

 

Simple logic. Anything so cheap and yet so effecitve , we would have all grabbed it/installed it by now even if manufacturers want to save their $5 .

↡ Advertisement
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...